AMOUAGE
THE ESSENCES – LUSTRE
2024
PERFUMER
Julien Rasquinet
Paul Guerlain
cardamom
orris
cedarwood
sandalwood
patchouli
benzoin
labdanum
styrax
ambrarome
myrrh
tonka bean
cypriol
vanilla
‘A light in the darkness. The gleam of a polished surface. Dazzling luminosity. Lustre begins with a spark – a burst of effervescent cardamom that fills the air with spicy vitality. The illumination is extended and softened by orris – a uniquely powdery material that adds a sheen of luxurious romanticism, causing the composition to glow with a rich elegance. The white creaminess of the orris is furthered by sandalwood, whose smooth personality projects a sense of perpetual seamlessness. At the scent’s conclusion, a delectable vanilla embraces the whole with warm, lingering sophistication. Reflecting, emanating and adoring light, Lustre is an unashamedly poetic olfactory expression of the desire to make the present last until the end of time. The Amouage Essences are a collection of three universal fragrances that push the boundaries of high perfumery. Reasons, by Bertrand Duchaufour, delves into introspection and resonance; Lustre, created by perfumers Julien Rasquinet and Paul Guerlain, radiates a refined brilliance; while Outlands, by Cecile Zarokian, captures the spirit of adventure and exploration. Each fragrance is highly concentrated, containing 30% pure perfume oils, and underwent a meticulous six-month aging process, including a double infusion with Sandalwood chips and oakwood barrels, resulting in a deep, layered scent experience. Housed in an original, refillable bottle – the first new design introduced by Amouage in 15 years – the Essences represent a pinnacle of olfactory artisanship.’ – Amouage
Lustre is quite a ways up my alley and while it’s not hard to see why Outlands has gotten more attention from the masses when it comes to these Amouage Essences, I knew early on in the wear that Lustre would have my preference. This is one you’ll see pop up in my Best of 2024 Awards and it won’t be near the bottom of the list.
Lustre is all about a muddy, thick, buttery, earthy orris/iris for me. It’s a typical style of the note that I’ve smelled before, but not all that often and every time that I encounter it, it hits the spot. In this case, it gets a bit sweeter (big labdanum drydown) than I’d like ideally, but this is still an instant love for me.
Very woody, almost cardboard-like woods. No forest greens, but earthiness and spices and most importantly, ever so slightly lactonic, buttery orris smothering it all. I get wood shavings from this,with a hint of smokiness, but made into pulp. The scent mirrors the barrel-aged process of the Essences in my mind and the textures here match with my expectations (as opposed to in Outlands); the scent profile seems to lend itself perfectly for this project.
Cardamom is the name of the game again, but less sharp and less green here than in Outlands. Up close it remains quite prominent for some hours, but in the air, the way you should smell a fragrance, it sticks out for a few minutes, before getting engulfed by the, admittedly somewhat linear, sweet orris-wood wave. If that isn’t your type of scent, there is not much happening in Lustre during the entire wear to convince you. Lustre feels less dynamic than most Amouage fragrances; in my experience more similar of a progression to the attars.
The sweetness opens mature and understated here, befitting of the woody and iris vibe. Not too sugary, not edible, just sweetened, warmed up woodiness. That being said, the one negative I can mention for Lustre, is that several hours into the wear, it becomes more and more of a sweet, thick amber (labdanum); reminding me at times of milder Chanel Le Lion‘s drydown. Based on only one wearing, I’d say that the first… 3 hours give or take, have my preference over the rest of the wear. That being said, the opening is quite singular and perhaps more of an acquired taste; I think many people won’t mind the growing ambery side.
As I mentioned, this style of orris isn’t new to me. I’m reminded most of Maison Sybarite & Antoine Lie’s Bed Of Roses, which is more milky, but similar in scent if my memory serves me correct. In general, woody iris fragrances such as Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve or TRNP Embers Renaissance aren’t worlds apart either, but it’s as if you took them, poured in heavy cream and turned into a mushy consistency. Other fragrances that I think are a good reference for this are of course orris buttery scents like some Francesca Bianchi’s (the more leathery Orris Soyeux for Annindriya for example).
Lustre is definitely up there among my favorite Amouage’s. It seems to me a bit of a one-trick pony, so if you get your nose on it, you’ll know quickly if this is for you or not. Luckily for me, it’s to my taste and while the price point (and me being broke) prohibits me from even thinking of adding this to cart right now, my heart says otherwise.