AMOUAGE
THE ESSENCES – OUTLANDS

2024

PERFUMER
Cecile Zarokian

bergamot
lemon
elemi
Sichuan pepper
cardamom
Frankincense

orange blossom
geranium
rose
saffron
cumin
wormwood
anise
coriander
patchouli

benzoin
Labdanum
amber
ambergris
frankincense
opoponax
maltol
vanilla
birch
oud
musk

‘The edge of imagination. Uncharted mysteries. A dance with the unknown. Outlands is an invitation to journey into the beyond. The opening note of the composition is unexpectedly light-hearted: an invigorating array of bright citruses, emphasised by zesty lemon. However, as the voyage continues, the landscape becomes more remote and more extraordinary. A rich, multi-faceted patchouli – projecting heat, humidity and verdancy in equal measure – compels the intrepid traveller to move deeper into the cryptic landscape. Finally, an amber accord – reverberating with the potency of balsams and resins – entices a progression to the ultimate encounter, where we find ourselves reflected and remade. As indescribable as it is familiar, Outlands makes use of extraordinary contrasts between light and shade to capture the ever-shifting inevitability of the future. The Amouage Essences are a collection of three universal fragrances that push the boundaries of high perfumery. Reasons, by Bertrand Duchaufour, delves into introspection and resonance; Lustre, created by perfumers Julien Rasquinet and Paul Guerlain, radiates a refined brilliance; while Outlands, by Cecile Zarokian, captures the spirit of adventure and exploration. Each fragrance is highly concentrated, containing 30% pure perfume oils, and underwent a meticulous six-month aging process, including a double infusion with Sandalwood chips and oakwood barrels, resulting in a deep, layered scent experience. Housed in an original, refillable bottle – the first new design introduced by Amouage in 15 years – the Essences represent a pinnacle of olfactory artisanship.’ – Amouage

Outlands is the first of the Essences that I’m reviewing, as it’s the most popular and most requested to be reviewed.

Often compared already to Nishane Ani (although I haven’t read any reviews for this yet, to let my thoughts be uninfluenced). To get it out of the way, Outlands is definitely different enough from Ani. I get the comparisons, as both are vanilla, spicy, a bit aromatic, but this would be a flanker at best, not a copy by any means. And in case you’re wondering, I would still prefer Ani (and Ani X) slightly over Outlands as I find them easier to wear, but they can coexist without a doubt in a collection. Outlands is a darker, deeper scent profile. Enough of that; let’s look at it on its own merits.

Straight from the opening, this is quite a punchy, almost harsh scent. Not really in a bad way, but it’s more ‘in your face’ than I would’ve expected from this Essences line. The spiciness is forward. I don’t get sweaty cumin per se, but I get a ton of cardamom. One thing I learned in 2024 is that cardamom often feels overpowered in fragrances for me and it tends to wear me down a bit after several hours. The same is the case with Outlands. Not to the point that I don’t enjoy the wear, but I would reach for it less often because of it; I have to be in the mood for this.

Warm, with a slight hint of citrus peel. It’s not all heavy and dark, but there is not a gigantic amount of levity here either straight from the jump. It’s on the serious side, especially since everyone touted it as a vanilla fragrance. To me, the scent profile feels appropriate for Christmas, as I’m reviewing it in December, like an over-sweetened spiced fruitcake. But also a hint of shaving cream or aftershave. Outlands is quite traditionally masculine leaning to me. It’s a combination that works well for me, but even more so than with Ani, I don’t think this is the safest blind-buy for vanilla lovers.

Vanilla yes, because vanilla is the star of the show here from start to finish. It’s the ingredient that jumps out at me as far as smelling rich and high quality. Custard-like vanilla, which is where a lot of the Ani comparisons will stem from. Mixed with a lot of incense, making this stay true to the Amouage heritage. For such a sweet scent, I’m happy to say that it feels much more traditional than a Love Delight, Guidance or even Cecile’s Material. From Amouages, I’m mostly reminded of a mix of Vanilla Barka & Incense Rori, but Outlands is significantly more spicy. I’m actually not sure after several hours, if this is really closer to Vanilla Barka at that stage, than it is to an Interlude 53 for example.

Then again, in the even later hours of the wear, it becomes a smoother, woody and vanillic scent that’s less spicy, less harsh. I still get a hint of men’s aftershave mixed in with the vanilla, which keeps it from being too generic. I like the late drydown.

So about the Essences being a whole new style and direction for the brand… Texture-wise I was expecting more from it, although that may be the wrong way to look at it; bear with me. The Essences with their barrel-aging and descriptions of a highly artisanal process heightened my expectations, and frankly, from the opening, I’m not getting anything special in that regards from Outlands. Nothing bad either, but it’s not as smooth and soft as the attars, but it also doesn’t feel as thick and oily as the Exceptional Extraits in my experience; it’s vibrant, rich, but also has harsher and sharper edges. This has a lot to do with the spicy notes of course, but I don’t think I would’ve been able to differentiate this Essence from your average Amouage EDP. Why I may be wrong in feeling underwhelmed, is that the longevity is seriously impressive. Almost 20 hours into the wear, I still smell it and I actually may like these latter hours the most. If this is where the magic of the process comes to life, then I should disregard my feelings on the opening hours’ texture. The attars for example, wear silky smooth and soft, but they didn’t impress me as much in terms of performance. I’m curious to see how it will feel with the other Essences.

Overall, a good release. More eccentric than I was expecting given the hype it has received. I would enjoy wearing it for sure and it keeps me excited for Reasons and Lustre, but it’s a strong like for me, not a love.