ANNINDRIYA
ORRIS SOYEUX
2024
PERFUMER
Francesca Bianchi
bergamot
magnolia
heliotrope
orris
narcissus
patchouli
leather
labdanum
vanilla
musk
ambroxan
‘A potent dose of orris, a subtle hint of powdery skin-scent through heliotrope and musk, an elegant aldehyde-infused citrus top note, and voluptuous sensuality from magnolia and narcissus—all bathing in the warmth of labdanum, patchouli, leather notes, and vanilla. The result: sensual, silky leather. Meet Orris Soyeux by Annindriya. Italian perfumer Francesca Bianchi captures the irresistible sensation of smooth silk and soft leather on bare skin in Orris Soyeux, exuding intimacy, sophistication, and vintage boldness. Orris Soyeux was born from the success of Cuir Soyeux (2019), a limited edition released for Perfume Lounge’s 10th anniversary. It’s a refined version, sharing the heart and spirit of its predecessor but with a more mature top and base. The powdery orris note takes center stage, with a touch more patchouli.’ – PerfumeLounge
Annindriya is a brand launched in 2024, by the owner of PerfumeLounge, one of the better Dutch perfume stores. Orris Soyeux, by Francesca Bianchi, was the one that caught my eyes most from the starting line-up. And it delivered.
I assume this is similar to Bianchi’s Cuir Soyeux, which she made for the PerfumeLounge store in 2019. I have not smelled this fragrance.
Orris Soyeux warrants another wearing soon after this first impression, because I felt it changed quite often on my skin. This doesn’t go in the more vintage-y direction of a lot of her 2020’s releases (such as Libertine Neroli, Luxe Calme Volupte or Unspoken Musk). That being said, it wears lighter than a lot of her old heavy hitters; despite having that dense, super buttery orris at its core that is one of Francesca’s signatures, as well as the suede leather vibe.
Rooty, vegetal, a bit green and floral, and initially a tad less sweet than others of her like Sticky Fingers or Tyger Tyger. It does grow sweeter, like airy caramel and the floral edges smell honeyed. The airy texture is probably accounted for by the seemingly high dose of ambroxan in this.
It’s very Bianchi. Buttery iris, rubbery suede, warm spices that remind me a little bit of cola in some wafts. Dry, but not nearly as dry as Tyger Tyger and I find the drydown closest to Sticky Fingers from the Bianchi’s that I’ve reviewed. However, Orris Soyeux is less relentless in its sweetness and less earthy, making for a cozier wear, especially versus The Black Knight, Under My Skin or The Dark Side. In fact, this is arguably the most comforting Bianchi for me and up there with her best work. I’m always a bit weary about leather, but here it’s given plenty of distraction and ‘softener’ to make it suitable, I think even to those who don’t like that scent.
My favorite from the brand on first impression, as I expected.