ATELIER DES ORS
IRIS FAUVE

2017

PERFUMER
Marie Salamagne

Iris
Bergamot
Cinnamon

Cypriol
Vetiver
Patchouli

Myrrh
Labdanum
Musk
Liatris

Atelier Des Ors is one of my favorite houses overall and I’ll tell you why Iris Fauve is up there with their best offerings.

Iris is arguably my favorite note and I have about a dozen iris fragrances in my collection at any given time. There are a couple of styles one comes across often, but Iris Fauve is probably the most woody leaning iris of the bunch I know.

Straight from the opening, there are two things that hit me. First of, there’s a strong woody scent, reminding me of old furniture. The glossy, super heavy wooden furniture my grandpa used to have at home. There’s a dustiness to it; like an old library. When smelled up close it almost smells nutty to me. There’s a strong dose of smoky sawdust.

The second thing is the sweetness; it grows sweeter throughout the wear, but from the start there’s a slight honeyed quality to the woods. The cinnamon and myrrh add to it; giving this a distinct sweetness and it’s more honeyed.

Of course there is the iris; which definitely comes through and is mostly there when you look for it. Iris Fauve is often compared to Bois D’Iris/Bois D’Argent, which I think overall is a bit misleading, but the ‘level of iris’ seems similar indeed. Iris Fauve is woodier, a tad darker and less sugary, although about as sweet. It reminds me a bit of my TRNP Embers Renaissance.

I consider Iris Fauve a 10/10 iris-assisted woody amber. If you want pure iris, there are much more focused options to consider, but I think Iris Fauve is spectacular and it could also work for people who don’t necessarily love iris (if you are prepared for the powdery, sawdust-like quality).

Sidenote: Atelier Des Ors Musc Immortelle shares a very similar iris-sweetness and is a good alternative to keep on your radar.