TEONE REINTHAL
Embers Renaissance
2022
PERFUMER
Teone Reinthal
AMBER
IRIS
DAMASK ROSE
MYSORE SANDALWOOD
BERGAMOT
‘EMBERS Renaissance is a very limited edition batch. I’m so very glad I made it as it’s turned out to be my favourite of all the EMBERS batches to date. The addition of Orris really takes it to another level of cosy elegance and sheer beauty. An intense burning passion for Mysore sandalwood was my motivation for creating Embers, and in 2010 I blended the first batch (350ml), purely for my own hedonistic enjoyment. I gave much of it away to friends and family who would smell it on me and … you know. And so I made more. A whole litre!! And it too went into the glorious breeze. The first 5 litre batch of Embers was made in the Summer of 2011, and was ready to wear in February 2012. I have learned over the years that something quite magical happens in the maturation of Embers during the Queensland Summer. The temperature here really heats up from mid-November to a long, slow cool down in late March, where it is typically very hot and hellishly humid, like being in a sweat lodge or sauna day and night. This is the best brewing time for all of my amber fragrances, but I first learned this from Embers. If I make it in any other season, it just behaves very differently, and never quite blooms as it should. So another batch followed in 2015 and then again in 2019. All of which were released in the following year after their long hot Summer brewing. I was feeling very uncomfortable about the scarcity of real Mysore sandalwood and the dwindling, carefully guarded stock from India. I decided to offer my sincere gratitude to the great spirit of Santalum Album, and put a full stop to the making of Embers. 2021 was my sunset effect of golden radiance before the indigo of night descends. And then the emails and messages began…. “Please (please) make it again”. And when people ask so nicely….’ – Teone Reinthal
To get it out of the way; I’ve unfortunately never smelled any of the previous versions of Embers. This 2022-2023 Embers Renaissance version has an added dose of iris, which happens to be my favorite note, so I decided to go for a blind buy; and I’m happy that I did.
This fragrance opens on the woody side, with a slight, green citrussy bergamot touch. As with most that I’ve tried from TRNP, the woods feel rather natural, forest-like. In this case, mixed with a particular wood-shavings scent that’s quite familiar; I’m thinking mostly of Atelier Des Ors Iris Fauve or even some Chanel Le Lion.
Slowly more and more of the iris comes through, more in a buttery, pasty way eventually, than just powdery as in the opening. The core feels radiant, golden, honeyed, woody with some softer floral iris surrounding it. I can’t say that I get much of the listed rose note.
On my first two wearings I found it more sweet in the late drydown, with a chocolate-vanilla side. However, on my latest testing, I found it remained on the iris-woody side throughout. That being said, I get a hint of the pasty sweet iris from Miyaz Iris Cacao late in the wear.
To me, this feels like a rather simple scent, but one that exudes quality. Straight up woody fragrances can be a bit bland, but when done correctly, there’s a cozy connection to nature there. That’s what Embers Renaissance does mostly for me. Really the type of fragrance to wear for yourself in my opinion. A beautiful one at that.
