XERJOFF
Astaral
2023
shamama accord
pink pepper
anise
rose
labdanum absolute
violet
amberwood
patchouli
oud
amber
cedarwood
moss
Kemi Blending Magic is a division of Xerjoff, with a separate line of bottles. In March 2023 Xerjoff re-launched it under their own branding as the K Collection with 13 fragrances and 2 oils at launch.
‘A celestial navigation that guides the wearer to a spell bounding discovery. With Shamama accord, anis and pink pepper, Astaral’s beauty is revealed, gradually making way for rose, labdanum absolute and violet at the heart. A sophisticated scent whose beauty soars, Astaral settles to base notes of patchouli, oud and moss’. – Xerjoff
THOUGHTS
Astaral is the first of the new K Blue fragrances from Xerjoff that I’ve tried (I have tried some Kemi fragrances prior). I heard Astaral was the most promising one and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot.
It’s a familiar style of scent; an oily rose with sweet wood. I also get a bit of saffron that’s not listed in the notes. It smells very similar to other rose-ouds, although I can’t really think of the ones that this is most similar to; probably the more Middle Eastern releases like Amouage Eidyya attar or Fragrance Du Bois Mutheer attar. But many Middle Eastern (inspired) brands that I’ve tried had similar fragrances in their line-up (Scent Salim, Anfas). As far as Xerjoff goes, it has a hint of More Than Words.
The rose is soapy, clean and aided by some acidity in the opening. It comes across very thick and oily to me, hence the connection to the attars. Underneath the oud accord is standard for a ‘mainstream’ oud rose; safe and sugary sweet. I do think Astaral captures a certain depth and density that most fragrances like it lack. It has the same richness of Chris Maurice’s 3 oud fragrances for Sarah Baker for example.
Performance seems to be great as well, so while it’s not doing anything new, if you want a heavy soapy rose, Astaral would probably be up there with Oud Satin Mood as one of my first recommendations. And since I sold Oud Satin Mood a long time ago, Astaral is definitely on my radar, although I’d have to wear it again, as it may also be a bit too much and too sweet to be ‘the one’ for me.