FRANCESCA BIANCHI
UNSPOKEN MUSK

2022

PERFUMER
Francesca Bianchi

Immortelle
Bergamot

Iris
Magnolia

Musk
Castoreum
Civet
Vanilla
Sandalwood
Tonka Bean
cypriol
Patchouli

‘Perhaps with boldness, I wanted to venture into a territory even more dangerous than the pure expression of personal instance translated into perfume, i.e. offering my own interpretation of the “raw” materials – the building blocks of a perfume composition as well as the crucial pillars of the history of perfumery The result of this adventure will certainly be ephemeral, since my positions and ideas on certain raw materials are multiple and changeable over time. These interpretations are certainly not to be considered a realistic reconstruction, but the result of a transitory artistic vision. In the myriad of possible meanings, with Unspoken Musk I wanted to define what Musk evokes in me. I didn’t look for the realistic rendering of natural musk, which is where the inspiration comes from. Moreover, if natural musks cannot be used in perfumery, the varieties of the synthetic ones embrace the most disparate olfactory categories. From “clean” musks in the “laundry-fresh” direction (not arousing any artistic imagination in me, however pleasant in its mere functional use) to the “dirty” ones that reached some interesting interpretative excesses, these two extremes define a very broad “musk map”, where anything is possible. Unspoken Musk is the fruit of my fantasy: despite being undoubtedly inspired by the natural musk, it is enriched by the stratification of memories, suggestions and readings on this mythical ingredient, which has inebriated human beings for centuries. And while developing this fantasy, its symbolic character was strengthened in my mind: Humanity, gentleness, intensity, passion. Perfumes there are as sweet as the music of pipes and strings,
As pure as the naked flesh of children, as full of peace As wide green prairies — and there are others, having the whole Corrupt proud all-pervasiveness of infinite things, Like frankincense, and musk, and myrrh, and ambergris, That cry of the ecstasy of the body and of the soul. Charles Baudelaire, Correspondences.’ – Francesca Bianchi

Unspoken Musk follows up Libertine Neroli, which was my favorite Francesca Bianchi release that I’d tried up to that moment. The two share a similar vibe in my opinion, which means that I also enjoyed Unspoken Musk a lot.

Straight from the opening I get a similar, slightly animalic, pissy acidic civet with greener notes. Libertine Neroli instantly came to mind (although Lost In Heaven is the most compared fragrance on Fragrantica, but I have not smelled that one yet at the time of this review).

I would say it borders on daring, but more so it adds a vintage-y touch that I think Francesca has really found her stride in since Luxe Calme Volupte. I seem to be in the minority, but I personally much prefer the balance and blending of her releases in this style, over the heavier-handed, honeyed-hay releases like Under My Skin, The Dark Side & Sticky Fingers.

As the wear progresses the iris comes through strongly and becomes the most prominent factor. To my nose, Unspoken Musk is quite close to Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, another favorite of mine. The Bianchi perhaps dives quicker into its sweetness and iris, letting go of the greener and more acidic elements sooner. It definitely has that same, buttery, beautiful iris that Chanel does so well.

There’s a slight leathery and spicy tinge throughout, but it’s overall quite bright. It has that tingling warmth that musks and oakmoss create, but on my skin definitely more in a gourmand-ish iris direction, than leather and spices.

Over 2022, this warm, musky and, to some people, daring style of iris with sweetness has become something a gravitate towards a lot and Unspoken Musk nails it. If I didn’t already have 31 Rue Cambon, I’d probably get a full bottle.