FRANCESCA BIANCHI
LIBERTINE NEROLI
2022
PERFUMER
Francesca Bianchi
Bergamot
Petitgrain
Neroli
Iris
Geranium
Animalic leather
Labdanum
Benzoin
Oakmoss
‘A Chypré structure presents an animalic facet that makes this fragrance seductive and intense as well as sophisticated and somehow vintage. The references that inspired this creation are the glorious places of Italian social life of the past years. The carefree atmosphere of the Roman Dolce Vita, the sense of freedom of Wyler’s Roman Holiday, or the refined-yet-casual vibe of Minghella’s The Talented Mr. Ripley. This is the first fragrance devoted entirely to a specific ingredient. This composition is conceived not as a simple rendition of a flower, it is a complex composition, only centered on the Neroli as major ingredients. Because of this, it has great longevity, body and structure.’ – Francesca Bianchi
As with Sticky Fingers (retro patchouli), Francesca has a knack for creating fragrance that I should not love, but that I instantly have an infatuation for. In the case of Libertine Neroli, a slightly animalic, mossy luxury soapy leather in the broad vein of Guerlain Mitsouko or Nicolai New York Intense.
I was so surprised when I sampled this a while back, because in my mind, the namesake neroli is quite misleading. Don’t go in expecting Libertine Neroli to smell like any of the popular neroli fragrances on the market. It’s mossy straight away for me, green, citric and soapy (like… neroli), but it’s also animalic with a hint of leather straight from the opening.
It creates an interesting mix of brighter, more Summer appropriate wafts and a growling underbelly that steers the fragrance in a mature, daring and vintage oakmoss-y direction. After some minutes there’s a slight fruitiness coming through, reminding me of fellow-Dutch Hiram Green’s sadly discontinued Shangri La (edit: Shangri La (2022) was re-released, but upon smelling it again, I think the Bianchi is greener, sharper and more daring).
In my subsequent wearings I found Libertine Neroli to grow more earthy, whereas initially I found it fully soapy. When smelled up close the leather is more prominent. The scent smells bright in the air, but feels thick and smooth to the wearer. The animalic tinge isn’t overpowering for me, but it’s consistent throughout.
My thoughts on this one will probably change more in the future. I’m mostly in love with the texture now and I think it might suit Autumn/Winter even more than the Summer, so that will be interesting to find out. If you’re looking for a neroli scent, thread lightly, but if you miss yesteryear’s oakmoss overdoses, run to get a sample!
