FRANCESCA BIANCHI
THE DARK SIDE

2016

PERFUMER
Francesca Bianchi

Incense
Honey
Styrax
Spicy Notes
Iris
Amber
Violet
Patchouli
Vanilla
Sandalwood
Cedarwood
Vetiver

‘I love woody warm sweet woody oriental stuff, and this scent is my attempt in this category. Its formula is very complex, made up by lots of components which I tried to mix in the smoothest way I could. So many components that, if you ask me, I have to look up the formula, the pyramid being just a synthesis. The funny thing is, I worked so much on the balance of so many ingredients that I forgot how it all started. It all started in Marrakesh, one of my favorite city, which I visited at 28 and then 39, always coming back with plenty of fake oils, scented stones, resins to burn, carpets, swords, and other useless but crucial objects. Last time I came back with many smelly bottles, among which a deliciously fake oud oil. I have never been a fan of it — as it was so fashionable lately, and I really hate trends — but this one is different. So, once home, I tried to make my own base inspired by this Moroccan fake oud, thus creating a sticky sweet woody smoky oriental stuff, which I called ‘My Oud’. Some time after, I started my Dark Side project (at the time named ‘Into Darkness’) and integrated this base in it. By doing so, I added in due proportion all ingredients of ‘My Oud’ into the bigger formula of Dark Side. After that, I made so many other variations during the following months while searching for a further harmony, that I simply forgot that the soul of ‘My Oud’ was in. Only a frag lover’s review — wondering about the possibility of the presence of Oud, which of course was not enlisted in the pyramid — made me remember about my lovely fragrant memory from Marrakesh. So, if you really want to keep a secret, you just have to forget about it, like I did with ‘My Oud’ base.’ – Francesca Bianchi

After loving Under My Skin & Sticky Fingers, it was time for The Dark Side. I heard great things about this one in particular, and although I can see why, I don’t think I prefer it over the aforementioned two.

The Dark Side isn’t dark, let’s get that out of the way. It’s not as imposing as Under My Skin and at least as easy to wear as Sticky Fingers. It is potent and opulent however, with a very floral, but deep honey scent.

You have sweet, almost woody resins that end up quite powdery. There’s a hint of acidity in the opening, but it didn’t throw me off. What makes this a like and not a love for me, as opposed to Under My Skin and Sticky Fingers, is the lack of warmth. When it opens up as a semi-gourmand honey scent, I was waiting for it to settle into a warm, comforting drydown, but in stead, this one kept me on my toes, rather than getting comfortable. I can also see how this can be a plus for people, but maybe it deviated too far from my expecations.

I’m not sure what causes it; maybe the incense itself, maybe the cedar in the base or even the patchouli, but it doesn’t warm up the way I wanted it to on my skin. That’s not to say that it’s harsh or bare-boned; it feels well-blended, quite smooth, albeit a bit powdery.

It’s a good honey scent to my nose, but not my favorite, nor is it my favorite Bianchi so far.