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      UNDER MY SKIN (2017) • FRANCESCA BIANCHI🔺, ScentAdvice

      FRANCESCA BIANCHI
      UNDER MY SKIN

      2017

      PERFUMER
      Francesca Bianchi


      UNDER MY SKIN (2017) • FRANCESCA BIANCHI🔺, ScentAdvice


      Spicy Notes
      Black Pepper
      Lavender
      Grapefruit
      orris
      Carnation
      Bulgarian Rose
      Leather
      Castoreum
      Ambergris
      Peru Balsam
      Tolu Balsam
      Musk
      Sandalwood
      Vanilla
      Costus
      Tonka Bean
      Oakmoss

      ‘Under My Skin is my interpretation of the animalic theme. I was charmed by strong animalic scents, and I tried to do my own; but I had to realize that what I like in other’s creations is not necessarily what I like to create myself. So after adding animalic materials going into the heavy or sweet or stable-like direction, I had to eliminate them little by little, and arrive to this solution which suits me the best: a leathery, slightly animalic, powdery one, a velvety and elegant take. It goes along with my personality and my style and when I finally realized that this was my way, I was finally happy and relieved. The name comes from a conversation with an artist and fragrance lover, who said it is as if the scent emanates from the skin. This concept of ‘Under My Skin’ reinforced my path of going into something more subtly ’human’ than overtly ‘animal’. The core of the scent is a combination of animalic and leathery notes tamed by orris (at 15% irone!). After working on this core, I worked on the base notes, made up by Tolu Balsam, Peru Balsam, Tonka Bean and several kind of woods. Last step of the job was the opening, where I used grapefruit and lavender. I used to be a ‘Lavender hater’: but here it plays a subtle and elegant part. I was amazed how nicely it matched this scent, adding brightness and elegance.’ – Francesca Bianchi

      UNDER MY SKIN (2017) • FRANCESCA BIANCHI🔺, ScentAdvice

      When you hear about Under My Skin, you often hear animalic within the same sentence, so I braced myself (this is one I tried before I dove deeper into the niche and artisinal world). I have to say, my initial reaction was that it’s not as dark as I expected.

      You do get an animalic, leathery accord with some sharp edges, but I wouldn’t call it challenging for most people. Quite quickly that leather becomes softer and the orris creates a smooth, almost chewy texture. It finds a balance between suede leather and a sweet hay-like scent on my skin. I guess what I perceive as hay is the carnation. There’s a distinct earthy, dirty floral, maybe even vegetal quality to this, with just the right amount of sweetness added (mainly a sweet resinous vibe).

      The ambergris, which can add a bit of saltiness to mimic the scent of skin, is understated to my nose. Aside from that it’s quite spicy, with peppers and cinnamon being prominent. To my nose, this is barely animalic or challenging; sure, it has a ‘skin’ like suede quality, it’s musky and it packs a punch, but it’s all balanced to be very wearable. If anything this is human ‘animalic’ skin, but it’s not skanky or barnyardy, it’s the carnation that stood out for me

      Under My Skin is a beautiful, daring fragrance that deviates a bit from the norm, but it’s still accessible. I’d say it’s perfectly unisex and even though it seems more suitable for colder weather, it worked surprisingly well in the warmer weather this week for me. It never became too much, it’s not too sweet. The performance is good, but it’s moderate in the projection, which I think works in it’s favor.


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