FREDERIC MALLE
HEAVEN CAN WAIT
2023
PERFUMER
Jean-Claude Ellena
clove
pimento
ambrette
carrot seed
iris
vetiver
vanilla
peach
prune
musk
‘Jean-Claude Ellena’s sensual journey in warm spice. Clove,pimento, ambrette and carrot seed are joined by the sophisticated beauty of iris. Vetiver brings structure and vibrancy; facets of peach and prune, roundness. Inspired in part by the intimacy of private worlds, the result is a modern rendering of a Parisian classic: understated, discreet and noble–an eternal seduction, simultaneously exotic and comforting. It subtly draws one in irresistibly and invites embrace. The result is something we now appreciate more than ever: a private heaven.’ – Frederic Malle
Heaven Can Wait follows up the underwhelming Uncut Gem and divisive (and totally not for me) Synthetic Jungle, with something that I think will again be divisive for long term brand loyalists. I do enjoy this one, a lot, and I doubt that Heaven Can Wait will ruffle as many feathers amongsts ‘purists’ as Uncut Gem did, but… let’s dive into it.
Heaven Can Wait is powdery and spicy. Iris is one of its main players, but it’s earthy, very carroty and on the sweet and spicy side. Completely different from for example Iris Poudre.
I get clove, pepper and cinnamon, for a Christmassy-stew of spice and (warm) carrot. What sets this apart from most older Malle releases is its sweetness. This leans deeply gourmand to my nose, both the spiciness and the carrot-iris (carrot cake?) have a big dose of sweetness to them, making this veer in the remote direction of a mix between Byredo Eyes Closed and the sweeter Byredo Seven Veils or even Casamorati Bouquet Ideale.
Which is a bit surprising; the first takes I heard on this fragrance were pushing my expectations in a more floral and musky direction than it is. The teased magnolia is not to be found in the official note breakdown either. I don’t think there’s any way around the spices, but these are gourmand-ish spices, as you expect them in a sweet tobacco fragrance, not traditionally masculine-cologne like spices for example. Especially with the clove being the main player to my nose for a good chunk of the wear. Heaven Can Wait starts to wear more and more as a sweet tobacco on me as it dries down further. Like a lighter Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille.
Add to that a cashmeran-ish muddy base, and this starts to confirm the trend that Malle has seemingly changed direction. I also don’t get the ‘Ellena touch’ here. While rather soft and close to the skin, it’s not transparent or sophisticated. It reels in the sweetness just enough to keep it classy, but in comparison to popular sweet spicy scents, not in comparison to most of the Malle collection.
It’s not until several hours in that it starts to become more of a musky, powdery skin scent, where the sweetness has faded a bit. It becomes a bit sharper, with the spices still firing off. Maybe even a hint of green, that I was expecting in the opening rears its head here. At this point it’s barely projecting or noticeable anymore. Performance seems average to me.
I enjoy this one a lot, but in the way I enjoy sweet fragrances like my Byredo Seven Veils, which is the closest match in my collection, or even as a Parfums de Marly Herod. It feels like it belongs in a different realm from most of the Malle’s that I truly love, aside from to some extent Dries van Noten. Which is not necessarily a bad thing; I think Malle could use a sweeter fragrance, especially with Dries van Noten being discontinued and Heaven Can Wait isn’t as hypermodern and harsh as Uncut Gem. The quality is there and the longevity of the spices keep it from being too generically sweet. However, if you’re looking for a spiritual successor to an Iris Poudre or even the similar (on paper) L’Eau D’Hiver, I think Heaven Can Wait skipped a couple of steps.