FREDERIC MALLE
DRIES VAN NOTEN

2013

PERFUMER
Bruno Jovanovic

lemon
bergamot
nutmeg
clove
saffron
jasmine
Sandalwood
Vanilla
Tonka Bean
Guaiac Wood
Patchouli
Woody Notes
Peru Balsam
musk

‘An enveloping warmth. First and foremost a creative response to designer Dries Van Noten’s Flemish roots. Belgium’s stark winter call for domestic warmth, while its history, as one of the great stages for the trade of precious raw materials, calls for a rich amalgam of textures and motifs: tea by the fire, speculoos biscuits and Indian spices inspired this comforting blend of milky sandalwood, vanilla, saffron, and sacrasol, for a lasting effect of exotic, buttery warmth. Worn like a couture winter coat.’ – Frederic Malle

When I bought Dries van Noten from Frederic Malle in 2021 it was heavily discounted and I hadn’t seen the 50ml in a while, so I pulled the trigger. Later that day Malle hinted at the discontinuation of Dries van Noten (which has since been proven to be true, I think because Dries van Noten launched his own fragrance line in 2022).

Dries van Noten was one of the first niche releases that I sampled when I started my journey. Dries himself is a Belgian fashion designer and his vision was brought to life by nose Bruno Jovanovic (most known for popular designers like Boss The Scent, Coach For Men, Armani My Way, Paco Rabanne Pure XS & more, but he also did Malle’s Monsieur and more recently Dans Mon Lit).

For me this is a very cozy fragrance. The opening can be a bit sharp as the spices attack the nose for a moment. There’s nutmeg, saffron and clove listed. To me, they’re not that distinctive, but there’s a definite spicy kick. Almost instantly the sandalwood becomes the main player. Having recently smelled pure Mysore sandalwood oil; I’d say Dries Van Noten comes pretty close. It’s very oaty, which was the most prominent aspect of the real Mysore; I haven’t smelled many other fragrances in which that was as noticeable as in Dries van Noten. I even get a hint of a camphor, herbal tinge of the sandalwood.

It’s also sweet from the vanilla, but in a mature way. I’d say this is a semi-gourmand; like a mature, spiced oatmeal cookie. It’s slightly lactonic, but also dry. The sweetness and oats combined can create an almond nutmilk vibe at times. Some people get soapy from it as well, but I didn’t perceive it as such.

Overall, it’s a stunning release. It’s surprisingly gourmand for Malle, but it’s too Malle to be a full-on gourmand if that makes sense.