CASAMORATI
BOUQUET IDEALE

2010

PERFUMER
Jacques Flori

Cinnamon
Nutmeg

Guaiac Wood
Sandalwood
Cedarwood
Papyrus

Vanille
Coumarin
Tobacco Blossom
labdanum
Musk

Bouquet Ideale has to be one of the most confusing names for a fragrance, since there’s not a floral to be found here to my nose or in the listed notes. It arguably my favorite Casamorati however, so let me tell you why.

I think that a lot of unassuming people would expect Bouquet Ideale to be a floral or traditionally feminine leaning fragrance, but they would be in for a surprise. Bouquet Ideale is a beautiful mix of almost boozy vanilla, spices (a lot of cinnamon) and a clean woody base.

There are many vanillas out there, but I don’t think I’ve come across one that feels similar to Bouquet Ideale (Lattafa Raghba is often named, but I haven’t tried it). In a sense it reminds me of Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille at times, but mostly of Byredo Seven Veils. It’s not powdery, ozonic or too musky; instead it’s booziness feels rather dense, with a (burnt) sugary edge. The cinnamon and nutmeg in combination with the woods is also rather dense (though not per se heavy); cedarwood, papyrus and musk are listed as notes, but it doesn’t have the standaard dry, plywood or even cardboard and musk base that a lot of vanillas I’ve tried seem to have.

It’s rather smoky woody instead, with labdanum, tobacco blossom and guaiac. At times it can come across as a tobacco and even a bit leathery to my nose, though I can’t explain where that would originate from. All while being relatively easy on the wearer; I wouldn’t say it is a dark or heavy scent overall.

I have and absolutely love Lira and understand people’s fascination with Italica, but in my opinion Bouquet Ideale is the most interesting, more mature and more unique smelling gourmand-ish offering from the house.