FREDERIC MALLE
IRIS POUDRE

2000

PERFUMER
Pierre Bourdon

rose
violet
ylang-ylang

iris

sandalwood
VETIVER
tonka bean
musk

‘Passion under ice. A classic perfume that keeps its sensuous femininity enclosed in a sober shape. A concealed satin lining of iris, musk and tonka bean is trimmed by cool, synthetic aldehydes for an aura of serene formality. Vetiver introduces a further quality of crisp chic, while decorative notes of rose, violet and ylang-ylang remind a stranger to see the woman beyond the surface. Woman in a tailored suit.’ – Frederic Malle

Probably my 6th favorite from the brand, but still a great one. As an iris lover, it was time Iris Poudre was added to the collection (through a swap).

Iris Poudre is very clean and traditional. Straight from the opening, I get a lot of aldehydes and musk for a baby powdery touch. It leans very floral otherwise, with a slightly fruity tinge throughout. When smelled up-close I get the tiniest hint of skank initially; like in vintage civet floral fragrances (there’s probably some indols from the yellow/white florals here).

Aside from a citrussy top, the fruitiness is one that I often get from violets. There’s sweetness underneath, but the overall impression is that of a colder clean fragrance that mostly reminds me of fresh laundry (at my grandma’s house perhaps).

I’d argue this wears more as a fresh floral with aldehydes and musks, than as a conventional iris fragrance. I can definitely see why its often compared to fragrances like Chanel No. 5, although I prefer Iris Poudre to wear myself by quite a margin.

On the other hand, I don’t love Iris Poudre as much as my favorite irises like Xerjof Irisss or Masque Milano L’Attesa (hence I didn’t buy Iris Poudre before). If I want to smell like clean linen however, this is one of the best options.