GUERLAIN
CHAMADE

1969

PERFUMER
Jean-Paul Guerlain

Hyacinth
Aldehydes
Jasmine
Rose
Bergamot

Galbanum
Lilac
Jasmine
Lily-of-the-Valley
Carnation

Tolu Balsam
Benzoin
Peru Balsam
Amber
Sandalwood
Vetiver
Vanilla

Unfortunately, I only have the miniature here with a few drops left. I had not smelled it properly before and I think this one aged quite a bit. I also have a full mini of the Chamade EDT, which smells significantly different. They’re both vintages, but I’m not sure from what year; based on the others in the set I bought, I assume early 70’s.

What I smell with the Parfum is a much deeper, darker scent. The juice is dark red and brown, whereas the EDT is light green and that’s indicative of what I’m smelling. Both have a green, spicy floral opening, but the EDT is bright and sharp, with a peppery kick, whereas my Parfum is warmer, thicker and almost smells like the mossy base of Mitsouko.

My working theory is that all the brightness and sharpness that I do get in the EDT (aldehydes, florals, spices) have largely faded due to the aging, more so than just the different concentration being responsible.

That being said, there are a lot of similarities too; both the EDT and Parfum have a bitter green tinge. Both have a vanillic sweetness, but in the EDT it feels more like a separate note that clashes with the florals, whereas in the Parfum, it’s one thick oily sweet forest.

Based on what I’ve read and heard, the EDT is probably closer to what Chamade is supposed to smell like, however, I must say I much prefer the Parfum, which as I mentioned, almost feels like a greener Mitsouko flanker from my vial.