AMOUAGE
OPUS XVI: TIMBER
2025
PERFUMER
Alexis Grugeon
cypress
cardamom
juniper
pink pepper
cocoa
lavandin
fir balsam
frankincense
palo santo
vanilla
sandalwood
cedarwood
patchouli
‘Opus XVI begins with tremendous monumentality: a firm, sturdy, boldly vertical expression of woods. However, within moments, the scent begins to reveal a wealth of nuances. The bright, woody facets of Cypress, Cardamom and Lavandin add luminosity. Frankincense, Juniper and Fir Balsam introduce their own uniquely kinetic energy. Finally, Palo Santo, Sandalwood, Cedarwood and Patchouli ground the whole with their uncompromising authoritativeness: symbols of a wisdom that remains firm and is not swayed by the tides of changing fashions. Vast, monolithic and yet never anything less than approachable, Opus XVI Timber celebrates the most primal, most natural forms of past knowledge while keeping its optimistic sights set on the wisdom yet to be acquired in the future. 25% oil concentration, 5 weeks ageing: 3 weeks maceration, 2 weeks maturation’ – Amouage
Timber is a classy, deep woody scent that lingers somewhere between the ‘old Amouage’ and the direction of recent years.
Initially and especially when smelled up close, I found some fougere-camphor, but at the same time creamy and subtly sweet woodiness. Within no time that camphorous edge makes way for sweeter spices.
For hours I felt like Timber went back and forth between sweet, burnt, fiery spicy wood with the trademark Amouage incense, and a more muted, smooth sandalwood. I prefer the more muted moments, whereas overall, there is quite a lot of vanillic sweetness that pulls it in a more modern direction for most of the time. There’s also quite an earthy, patchouli base here. You get a lot of different woody facets.
It boils down to a really well-constructed, wood shavings vibe. That charred, slightly smoky, warm scent of freshly shaven wood, but with a nicer creamier, pulpy texture than for example in Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve. As far as Amouage comparisons go… maybe imagine Material or Decision, if they were made 10-15 years earlier.
Overall, I liked Timber. It just feels like a ‘good’, nicely crafted, elegant fragrance, albeit one that it feels somewhat forgettable. It doesn’t have the trendy quality and styling of any of the Amouages of recent years, aside from a bit too much sweetness creeping in. Likely not a fragrance that’s going to blow minds or appeal to fans of the newer Amouage direction, but a solid offering.
