AMOUAGE
MATERIAL

2021

PERFUMER
Cecile Zarokian

Patchouli
Elemi

Vanilla
Benzoin

Tonka Bean
Incense
Guaiac Wood
Labdanum
Oud
Osmanthus

My first impression of Material was mixed. On one hand it’s a very sweet fragrance and a departure from the Amouage’s pre-Renaud Salmon’s time as creative director of the house. On the other hand, there’s a quite pungent, dry, sand-storm like smokiness that makes it so that Material doesn’t veer into generic or overly safe territory either.

Material is not a gourmand vanilla instantly, but rather an amber scent, with an emphasis on resinous and dry guaiac woodiness in the opening and a benzoin bomb drydown. It is instantly sweet, with a syrupy, rich vanilla, but the combination does not come across as edible to me.

It’s a very warm, almost fiery scent. It has elements from familiar amber fragrances; one that it reminded me of is Astrophil & Stella’s Amberlievable. Material is more heavy on the incense, guaiac and patchouli than most. This makes for a darker, more earthy and dry fragrance, that I believe can be a little daring to some people.

As it develops, it leans harder into the vanilla and benzoin sweetness. At this stage it’s an easier wear, which feels like a comforting reward. It will cut perfectly through cold weather, so that’s when this will probably shine even more.

Material grew on me and I really like it, although it’s not among my favorites from the brand. The seemingly less popular Boundless that was released alongside Material has my preference for example.