Xerjoff
SKETCHBOOK – P. 13
2025
bergamot
violet
turkish rose
orange blossom
clove
jasmine
tuberose
oakmoss
peru balsam
tobacco
vanilla
‘The latest releases from the Sketchbook collection explore some of the many ways in which desire manifests itself, with each offering a different perspective on the theme. The flacon of p.13 is deliberately suggestive, designed to allow the mind to wander. Wrapped tightly in a bondage-style cord, this perfume has taboo connotations of lust and control. The seal on the cord can’t simply be opened, it must be broken in order to set the restrained subject free, creating an imbalanced dynamic: the powerless and the powerful. The tantalising crimson perfume, with its white floral scent, is left at the mercy of its owner. The delicate, powdery touch of Turkish rose is felt in the opening of p.13, but this scent is defined by the tuberose at its heart. A mystical note, tuberose has long symbolised the power of attraction of the human body, and its soft, smooth and narcotic qualities make p.13 an irresistibly tempting perfume. The flacon is the work of expert Tuscan artisans. Polished glass surfaces, metal elements bathed in gold, grooves to accommodate the leather cord — all of these features were achieved entirely by hand. As a result, no two flacons are exactly the same. Each one is a unique work of art in its own right.’ – Xerjoff
Some general thoughts on the P. 13, P. 18 & P. 70 trio that I’ve wore over a weekend, before diving into the individual review. These are definitely fragrances where you are paying for the bottle, with prices ranging between €1100 & €1300 each. I like all 3 to some extent, but neither feel as elevated as the 17/17 line, most of the oud collection or the other Xerjoff that comes close in price, Lunosa. For me these are solid scent profiles, but they feel like they are no different than the lower end Xerjoffs or perhaps most accurately, the Iommi & Duran Duran collaborations. Notes overlap between them, but they are 3 quite distinct scent profiles. I’m a fan of the opening of P.13 & P.70, with P.70 staying the most interesting overall.
As far as P. 13 goes; this was the one I was most anticipating. The tuberose being forward, in combination with tobacco and potentially darker or sweeter notes, puts it in line with the notes of Lunosa, which is one of my 2 favorite Xerjoffs. I also heard from people that smelled it during TFWA Cannes, that Lunosa came to mind for them. Unfortunately, I think P.13 ultimately pales in comparison.
The opening hour is the most exciting, with some of the slightly smoky, but still very mild tobacco side in the picture. Tuberose is much more prominent here and that becomes abundantly clear as it dries down, where in my opinion, it becomes a pretty standard, pleasant, but not interesting, tuberose scent.
Bergamot is prominent at first as well, which I really like. Before long, instead of growing darker and more towards tobacco, it becomes candied sour for a while and when that acidity fades, the more common greenish, floral tuberose pushes through. It overpowers the sweetness, the acidity and it doesn’t grow dark or daring.
Less Lunosa, perhaps more Decas. It smells fine and I would happily wear this one, but even if it was priced towards the lower-end Xerjoffs, it would not be something that I think merits serious consideration.
