FRANCESCA BIANCHI
Encounters

2023

PERFUMER
Francesca Bianchi

bergamot
orange
cassis
lavender
coriander

orris
rose
angelica
cinnamon

ambergris
castoreum
oud
sandalwood
cedarwood
benzoin
balsam

‘Intense, luxurious and mysterious: this new creation is the result of my desire to bring together two different cultures, represented by two different materials: Iris and Oudh – for West and East. The refined sophistication of orris, with its soft and mysterious powderiness, combines with Oudh, a material resulting from an infection of the Aquilaria trees, giving rise to one of the most fascinating and complex scents in perfumery.’ – Francesca Bianchi

I was really looking forward to Encounters and it’s definitely an interesting experience (quite different from what I expected in the opening).

I have to say that Encounters opens like nothing I encountered before (I’ll see myself out). There’s a lot of fruitiness, but it’s muted/watered down. Straight away, I get a buttery quality in this; not just orris, actual butter. Mixed with the fruitiness, it kind of reminded me of a slightly fruity, sweet ice cream.

Underneath is a slightly animalic mix of… hair spray? with lavender scent. The lavender is quite prominent, but only for a couple of minutes. It’s a rather weird combination with the buttery texture; not bad, but on first wear I didn’t really find comfort in the first hour. Someone described it as ‘lavender Fanta’ and I definitely get strong hits of berry-Fanta or cassis. Picture making a cream soda out of that.

All of that and especially of its acidity, vanishes within the hour. Turning Encounters in a much more familiar, sweet orris woody scent with strong nutty accent (ambrette-like to my nose).

There’s a woodiness and earthiness underneath, but I don’t get as much oud that I recognize as such or animalics as I anticipated. Instead the main focus lies in the buttery iris, a nutty woodiness and a faint hint of airy fruitiness.

The opening is highly unique, but I didn’t love it. The drydown is more common, but suits me better. A pretty nice release, but not one that will make my wishlist.