MAISON CRIVELLI
CUIR INFRAROUGE
2024
PERFUMER
Jordi Fernandez
raspberry cocktail
sweet bergamot
cinnamon
osmanthus
cedarwood
orris
leather accord
oud accord
patchouli
vanilla
Launched exclusive to Selfridges, but was released worlwide in 2025.
”A fluorescent adventure with oud, soft leather and raspberries. Underground festival. Fruity neon lights, a spicy DJ. 1, 2, 3 PLAY! Raspberry cocktail, sweet bergamot, leather tempo, electro cedar, an iris dance. An oud after-party.‘ – Maison Crivelli
‘The Cuir Infrarouge extrait de parfum from Maison Crivelli is in collaboration with perfumer Jordi Fernandez and is inspired by a raspberry cocktail Thibaud Crivelli enjoyed while attending an electronic music festival. This scent is designed to inspire nostalgia, combining luminous notes of cinnamon and cedarwood with vibrant leather accord to create a citrusy sensation that’s sure to turn heads, whether you’re on the dancefloor or somewhere further afield.’ – Selfridges
Oud Maracuja was a hit. Oud Stallion was pretty much all the things I don’t care for in Oud Maracuja magnified. And now we have Cuir Infrarouge, which again follows a similar path that I think has began to run its course already (not per se due to Crivelli, but more so because a lot of brands and perfumers have started copying this style). Cuir Infrarouge combines it with a very predictable red fruits-leather profile that has already been explored to its breaking point after Tuscan Leather.
I would say Crivelli has been a stand out brand in recent years; funny enough with their other leathery scent Safran Secret as potential favorite release of 2025 for me. But Cuir Infrarouge is my least favorite of their recent works (although I would personally wear it before Oud Stallion). It has the expected brazen, bold, loud and harsh woodiness from the Oud Maracuja-Oud Stallion lineage, but instead of the brighter, more acidic maracuja, it’s the familiar smelling raspberry, red berries, softer red fruits that smells exactly how you would expect it to smell if you’ve encountered Tuscan Leather or any of the numerous similar leathers. Other references would be Widian London and Diptyque Eau Rihla, but there are many.
The opening is especially harsh, with a charred woodiness, that smells actively bad when smelling it close to the skin. In the air it’s more forgiving to be fair, but up close it has a fruity faux-oud blast that brings back memories of old Montale. And that is kind of what you get here… a Montale-style or Middle Eastern skankier take on Tuscan Leather; or a Tuscan Leathery take on Oud Maracuja…whichever way you want to go about it. The one thing that sets it apart is a (subtle, but noticeable) sweetness… like a milky vanillic sweetnes, that feels out of place in my opinion.
After the opening, the fruitiness becomes even more forward for a while, and yes, this is a wearable perfume for me, with few sprays and from a distance, but it’s not interesting and it doesn’t wear nicely. I can only see this appealing to people who are looking for this familiar scent profile in their collection, that love a loud, bold, in-your-face, strong rendition of it (people that I hope to avoid meeting in confined spaces). It’s definitely not for me.