CHANEL
BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF
2025
PERFUMER
Olivier Polge
sandalwood
labdanum
woody notes
amber
leather
‘Designed like an Extrait de Parfum, BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF is a complex fragrance with a spellbinding trail. Its woody notes, the emblematic signature of the collection, have been accentuated, lending the scent a warm quality. Leathery and ambery notes make this the most mysterious of all the BLEU DE CHANEL interpretations. An indefinable creation that fully reveals itself on skin. The radical contours of the cubic bottle emphasize the unique shape, rendering the vessel a true statement piece and conveying the power and sophistication of BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF. A precious object and a graphic representation of the expression’s extraordinary intensity. BLEU DE CHANEL imposes neither confines nor limits. It signifies a horizon line that is approached by a man who aspires to see beyond it. BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF is a fragrance for the man who contains the depth of infinite possibility within himself, who sees every boundary as an invitation to transcend it. A man who is on the ultimate quest. L’EXCLUSIF is a name that denotes an exceptional composition—a vision that is reflected in each olfactory, visual and tactile element. Composed by In-House Perfumer Creator Olivier Polge, BLEU DE CHANEL L’EXCLUSIF is a concentration of raw materials, embodying the House’s expertise. Sandalwood, highlighted in all its glory, adds dimension. The enigmatic character of the scent manifests through notes of cistus labdanum. Finally, woody ambery notes bring contrast and vibrancy, resulting in a majestic interpretation that leaves a memorable impression and stays on skin as if magnetically drawn to it.’ – Chanel
In what surely will be one of the most talked-about men’s fragrances of 2025; Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif. With the naming and big price hike, it battles serious expectations. So I prepared myself mentally to be let down, but to my surprise… this is pretty good.
It’s a warmer, sweeter Bleu, but I don’t get the Le Lion comparions, at all; not even in the late drydown. It has nothing of the smokiness and loudness of Le Lion. It basically smells like the other Bleu (Parfum from memory being closest) with a lot more spices and sweetness. I get about as much Sauvage in this, as Le Lion. Which I think is a good thing, despite me liking Le Lion a lot more… it just wouldn’t have been a Bleu de Chanel if it went further in that direction. L’Exclusif feels like a proper flanker to the Bleu DNA.
It loses the brightness a lot and a lot quicker than other Bleu de Chanel & has a more spicy, peppery, cologne tinge. I definitely get a hint of cumin giving it that sweaty tinge, but not dirty or raunchy. It has a metallic tinge, colder spices… making up for the downgraded citrus in the opening by offering contrast to the warmer side.
I’m quite surprised at how ‘classical’ this still feels. Not retro and yes, it’s sweeter, which pulls it more modern than a traditional cologne style scent. Nor is the sweetness that of a traditional tonka-fougere, but it’s not the cloying sweet or astringent amberwoody contemporary mess that I was a afraid it would be. It retains a sense of class and sharpness.
It’s less amber/labdanum-heavy than I figured based on some reviews (which would make it more like Le Lion). Instead, it’s mostly spicier to me. The spices seem to go from the cooler (cumin, pepper) to a bit warmer (cinnamon-ish) during the wear, losing their edge; but still not as sweet as in a lot of new releases. I still don’t get Le Lion from it one bit at this stage; maybe watered down x50, taking off all the rougher edges, but by that point, it’s just a some common amber-labdanum accord, not Le Lion.
L’Exclusif feels well-constructed, not too harsh, but performance seems good. I agree with the general consensus that there’s a drier, powdery texture creeping in, but I like that it doesn’t feel overly mushy and abstract, it has a clarity and sharpness to it, which in its own way cuts through the sweetness.
Frankly, I never cared for Bleu de Chanel in the first place, and Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif will never end up in my collection; I just wouldn’t feel the need to wear this scent profile often. L’Exclusif would be my first pick for a Bleu de Chanel however. Understandably, for casual (Bleu de Chanel) wearers, the price will be a big negative and I assume it will hijack a lot of the discourse surrounding this release. Realistically though, for people with a niche collection, the price is not unusual and I think this feels every bit as complex and well-rounded as the average fragrance at this price point; let me put it this way: If you accept Parfums de Marly, Initio, Creed, current Roja, current Dior’s private line, etc. pricing… then it really doesn’t warrant any discussion for this release either. It’s significantly better than Parfums de Marly’s latest men’s option Castley or Roja’s Isola Verde for example. Thumbs up.
