PRADA
PRADA / AMBER

2004

PERFUMER
Carlos Benaim
Max Gavarry
Clement Gavarry

Bergamot
Bitter Orange
Mimosa
mandarin

Patchouli
Rose
Pink Pepper

Benzoin
Sandalwood
Musk
Labdanum
Tonka Bean

For me this Prada Amber (formerly known as Prada Prada; not to be confused with Prada Amber Pour Homme) might be my favorite amber fragrance. I’d tried and loved this several times before in store, but it’s even better than I thought.

Prada Amber has an amazing, rich and versatile amber accord going on. Straight away I get a bergamot, which combined with the labdanum is reminiscent of great ambers like Guerlain Shalimar, but in the Prada it’s more citrussy.

The opening takes you through various stages. It’s sparkling, it has tinges of cola and cinnamon to my nose. At the same time it has the slight soapiness of tonka and a cleaner, babypowder vibe creeps in occasionally. The citrus lasts quite a while and overall, it veers into slightly green territory.

There’s a lot of patchouli, but to my nose, not nearly as earthy as other reviews have stated. Prada Amber is often compared to Chanel Coromandel and it’s easy to see why, but the Prada (at least from my bottle) is much sweeter and easier to wear (more like the Coromandel Parfum). It’s tart in a way that reminds me of Coco Mademoiselle‘s patchouli.

Above all, reigns a vanillic amber accord. I have no idea why so many people didn’t find this to be gourmand or sweet enough. Yes, this is retro and powdery, but at its core it’s a resinous, sweet amber through and through.

As someone who can struggle with strong patchouli, this one registers as an amber and vanilla fragrance to me. Closer to Coromandel than to Shamilar to be sure, but to my nose not all that green or earthy.

It does remind me of Chanel’s styling, but it actually feels like the non-existing ‘gourmand’ Les Exclusifs that I’d been missing. Prada Amber smells like a lot of things, but in my opinion, this would make most of them obsolete and not the other way around.