BON PARFUMEUR
204
2025
PERFUMER
Domitille Michalon-Bertier
fig
violet
iris
ambrette
edamame
cedarwood heart
sandalwood
‘A garden of a thousand scents at the heart of which stands a majestic fig tree. A sunny fig supported by crunchy edamame. Like a tradition, every summer morning at dawn. Legs and arms stretch and expand. Figs are picked for young and old and enjoyed at the foot of the tree, in the morning coolness.’ – Bon Parfumeur
‘I imagined a sunny fragrance bursting with sweet figs over creamy sandalwood; the reminiscence of a delicious moment, a nap in the shade when the sun is beating down hard around… and I added a touch of green, a touch of nature, like a crunchy edamame bean.’ – Domitille Michalon
Bon Parfumeur had really stepped up their game with some releases prior to this one (my absolute favorite of course being my 2024 Awards winner for best new release, 502 – Iris Cartagena). Bon Parfumeur always had really pleasant fragrances, that were affordable, but you usually give up performance for that, and in that sense, 204 feels like a return to the usual for the brand.
I absolutely adore the scent in the opening hour here. Fig is understated or at least, very bright and fruity for a fig scent. It doesn’t have any harsh, screechy greens or leafy facets. Instead, I’m mostly reminded of a watery pear and peach when I smell 204.
Add to that the iris and ambrette and you get more of a sweeter, warmer, carrot seed-oil like quality along with the brighter fruitiness. Making for a cozy, soft wear that transitions nicely from opening to a bit more warmth. It gives a strong sense of slightly sweet/warm warm like ambroxan to me.
So far, so good; great even, but I’d be remiss not to mention that that is sort of where it ends for me. After only a couple of hours, I keep losing this fragrance. I applied it 3x as I was writing up notes to make this review and each time, I sort of forgot I was wearing it and it was gone before I knew it. I rarely address performance and at €55/30ml or under €100 for a full size, weak longevity for a nice fragrance isn’t really an issue for me personally (reapplying a nice opening always beats out a drawn out wear that becomes screechy or cloying), but it was noticebly short-lived and something to take into account.
Overall, this is not an instant wow like Iris Cartagena was, but that was to be expected and for their more affordable collection, it’s up there with my favorites.