ORMAIE
YVONNE Extrait

2024

bergamot
neroli
plum
turkish rose

peach
jasmine sambac
orange blossom

amber
tonka bean
patchouli
musk

This is a flanker to Yvonne EDP (2018). It was released as the first of the Ormaie extraits, alongside Toi Toi Toi Extrait (2024).

‘The new damascus plum added to the fragrance compliments the red fruits of Yvonne, contrasting with the patchouli overdose. The liquorice edge gives the fragrance a deeper and opulent character.’ – Ormaie Paris

To me this is a nice upgrade over many a popular fruity women’s designer. And to get it out of the way; I’ve only smelled the Yvonne EDP briefly in store, so I can’t compare them.

I get a lot of the sharpness in the opening. While some of the notes are missing from the EDP, like blackcurrant and grapefruit; it’s not a stretch to imagine them here. It’s very screechy, but for me, not in a negative way. It has the sharpness that you get from jasmine, but also from (unripe) fruits and for example a peach skin. It’s not as cozy and juicy as one may expect; or deeper as the brand’s description pitches.

It has that tart quality from a BDK Pas Ce Soir or Goldfield & Banks Sunset Hour, but I think Yvonne (Extrait) wears more mature. Perhaps closer to Carner Marbella. The tartness here goes in a wine-like direction. To my nose, it’s also much drier; the bit of juiciness from the fruits fades and most of the wear feels dry on my skin. It also retains quite a bit of a green tinge throughout; just an edge.

It’s an interesting mix of sweet and fresh, as it has that aromatic, sharp air to it, but especially up close, it does get very sweet. Not quite gourmand or anything, but this is a distinct sweet patchouli base that you get from many women’s designers.

In that sense, Yvonne Extrait will smell familiar to some extent, but I think it’s well-done and I like the restraint on the sweetness and fruitiness. One of the better niche-renditions of the fruit-chouli genre.