CLAUDIO ZUCCA
Velvet Rose

2023

PERFUMER
Claudio Zucca

mandarin
raspberry
Raspberry leaf
strawberry

rose centifolia
incense
tuberose
jasmine absolute
leather

styrax absolute
tolu balsam
labdanum
patchouli
vanilla

Velvet Rose is my first time trying the brand of Claudio Zucca and unfortunately, it was the perfect demonstration on why you have to give fragrances a wearing before making up your mind (or buying them).

See, in the first couple of hours, I loved Velvet Rose. I almost texted someone to rave about discovering it. It opens as an animalic rose, with a lot of acidity, and acidic rose is right up my alley. It opens juicy, syrupy, vibrant, but also a tad green, mossy, vintage; I was reminded of my Roja Rose Parfum, Guerlain Nahema, but definitely also Roja’s aoud accord, especially Taif Aoud.

And then it turned.

The base that overtakes the composition after a while is a typical sweet-nutty-grating amberwoody vibe. I’ve smelled it dozens of times before and I dislike it every time. I’m not sure what ingredient exactly causes this mix, but it’s a mix of scorched, charred woods and an ambrette-like nuttiness. Powerful, long-lasting, but I find it by no means pleasant.