EX NIHILO
The Hedonist EXTRAIT
2024
PERFUMER
Jordi Fernandez
bergamot
Grapefruit
ginger
cedarwood
akigalawood
lychee
amberwood
vetiver
tonka bean
patchouli
This is a flanker to The Hedonist (2019).
‘The Hedonist impresses with a unique combination of fragrance notes that are perfectly coordinated. The top note is dominated by sparkling bergamot and grapefruit and accompanied by a hint of ginger, which give the fragrance an invigorating freshness. In the heart, the seductive aromas of cedar wood, akigalawood (as in Bois Imperial) unfold, surrounded by a hint of lychee. The base note is made up of warm amber woods, vetiver, tonka bean and patchouli, which give the fragrance depth and complexity. The new The Hedonist Extrait de Parfum by Ex Nihilo promises a more intense and luxurious fragrance experience than ever before. With a higher concentration of precious ingredients and a carefully coordinated composition, this fragrance will raise the senses to a new level of pleasure.’ – NichePerfume
To preface, I’ve only smelled the Hedonist EDP a couple of times in stores, but I never gave it a full wearing, so I also never reviewed it. Unfortunately, I can’t give you a real comparison. What I assume and can gather from other reviews, is that this Extrait is deeper, but perhaps also fruitier? Better performing, as many found the original light. I will speak on what I can actually smell.
Which is hard enough, because The Hedonist Extrait isn’t that easy to pin-point in my experience. I would say it’s a syrupy fruity scent more than anything else? But it is rich and ‘deep’, the fruits here are not overly sweet, but definitely sweetened and the texture, especially when smelling it up close, is dense and thick. Scent-wise, it leans tropical to me, perhaps more like a mango than the listed grapefruit and bergamot.
And I like how the different parts of the composition create a contrast. Up close, it smells sweeter to me, with tonka bean coming through. In the air, it’s more ozonic, musky even. I was reminded at times of the kind of projection that I get from the rhubarb-esque scent in Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade. However, after a while, it hit me what The Hedonist Extrait reminded me of more. And that’s Amouage Guidance 46. Perhaps not in actual scent, as the Amouage is more floral, rosy, but in wearing experience, I find an overlap between the two. And specifically the 46 flanker, as that was also more fruity. Which isn’t all that surprisingly, as I’ve said for years now that perfumers Jordi Fernandez and Quentin Bisch are practically mirroring each others style and use of ingredients.
It’s that tart lychee brightness that keeps coming through and that I think makes The Hedonist work for me; otherwise I would’ve found it too sweet; it needs the acidity to cut through it. I don’t get a particular woody scent much in the base, but you do get a sort of harsher, nondescript synthetic push on the back-end that I assume lends a big hand to the performance.
Overall, not 100% my scent profile, but I enjoyed wearing it. I think it’s well done and I have a feeling that most fans of The Hedonist will at the very least appreciate this flanker. Of course, that comes at a monetary cost, which is rarely easy to justify, but at least you’re getting a good product here.