PERNOIRE
POKA
2024
caramel popcorn
apple pie
cinnamon
roasted hazelnut
labdanum
dried apricot
vanilla
tonka bean
cedarwood
musk
Initially launched in collaboration with Titolo, but a wider release followed since.
‘This fragrance encapsulates the audacious goal of creating the ultimate dessert in scent form. It stands as a sophisticated statement of indulgence, inviting exploration of never-before-smelled gourmand territories—a dedication to the sweetest dishes in life. In collaboration with the renowned perfume brand Pernoire, we, your go-to streetwear shop, proudly present an extraordinary fragrance: POKA. Inspired by urban culture and crafted with unique scent notes like caramel popcorn, apple pie, cinnamon, roasted hazelnut, vanilla, and cedarwood, POKA is a sensory journey that perfectly complements your style.’ – Titolo
From the white bottles of Pernoire at the time of writing (Anelo, Melos, Oudian & Poka), Poka is definitely the safest bet. In general, Pernoire has changed quite a lot since its inception and the scent profiles feel more trendy with the later releases; Poka being the most straight-forward example of this. For transparency; I only received a sample of Poka, but it came with other PR bottles from the house, hence the #AD banner above.
Whereas the brand has introduced nods to sweetness and gourmand with Amoral and especially Otimo, Poka seems to be the all-out attempt to join in on the popular gourmand trend. I’d say it’s the most mass appealing Pernoire out of the whole collection.
The opening is the most interesting part of the wear to me and I was surprised how much I liked it. Sesame, marzipan… gourmand, but not too heavy-handed. I can’t really describe what sets it apart from a plethora of other gourmands, but somehow it doesn’t feel too generic in the first hour. I don’t specifically smell popcorn, but it has that spirit of lightness and airiness to it; like a rice cake has.
Initially, I don’t get much of the fruits (apricot, apple), but after the opening, it takes a clear turn into Angels’ Share territory. However, it’s a more gourmand, more easy-going and less smoky take on the Angels’ Share DNA, which puts Poka directly up against Sora Dora Jany. Very similar at some points, although the top notes differ quite a bit. Jany has most of the apple and brigher fruitiness up top, whereas Poka, as I described, has a different gourmand opening. The two converge somewhere in the middle.
Overall; not the most interesting or unique scent and definitely the clearest deviation from Pernoire’s older collection in my opinion, but a well-executed one. I would probably prefer this over Amoral or Otimo and I’m leaning towards thinking I would also pick it over Jany. From its collection, I think Oudian is a bit more interesting, but those are the two that I’d gravitate towards.