PERNOIRE
OUDIAN

2025

PERFUMER
Andreas Wilhelm

durian
saffron
tropical fruits
sichuan pepper

labdanum
frankincense

vetiver
oud
leather

‘Dominance isn’t granted-it’s taken through strength and unwavering authority. Those who dominate don’t merely navigate challenges; they overpower them, reshaping their path through sheer determination and commanding presence. Every action radiates power, every decision echoes strength, and their influence is undeniable. Oudian, named after the main actors in the scene and short for Oud and durian – a metaphor for undisputed dominance.’ – Pernoire

While I’ve never smelled durian fruit in real life; Oudian seems like a cool take on that concept. At least it smells of skanky fruits throughout to my nose and it really commits to the theme.

I have actually smelled real distilled durian in perfumery once, with Areej le Dore’s Santal Galore, but the two are incomparable on any level (in Santal Galore, it seems to mainly add creamy texture and not much of a scent). Instead, the instant comparison that everyone is drawing is Maison Crivelli Oud Maracuja. Now there is some overlap in the opening to that DNA, as it’s ‘daring fruity’; same with Amouage King Blue for example, however, that is where the similarities begin and end in my opinion. Oudian definitely stands on its own and dries down completely differently.

Whereas Oud Maracuja has that harsh, charry/nutty dark woody base, Oudian stays much brighter and fruitier; it’s more sour throughout, albeit pungent and skanky for that time as well. I get mango, melon and overripe apple. I think the apple comes from my memory of Widian Al-Wasl, which may be the closest fragrance I’ve smelled to Oudian, with its acrid apple-oud opening.

Performance-wise, Oudian is interesting too. It’s an absolute powerhouse in one way, and it definitely leaves a skanky sour cloud in any room you’ve sat in; however, it’s not overbearing to me as a wearer. I think it helps that it’s not too harsh and not too dark and heavy; I wore it for a car drive and cinema visit and didn’t feel like it was doing too much, whereas I expected to had made a mistake to wear it for that occassion.

Oudian is not fully my jam and it’s definitely not the type of fragrance that I would wear frequently, but I like that it’s different enough from the Crivelli or from most fruity scents (it doesn’t have an Erba Pura/God Of Fire vibe for example) and that it fits the Durian theme as far as I can image. Overall, I like it better than I expected. Pernoire seems to have been hunting for a best-seller, with sweeter, more mass appealing, or in this case, trendy marketable releases, than their older line-up and I think Oudian could and should be their biggest hit so far. Thumbs up.