AMOUAGE
OPUS XV KING BLUE
2023
PERFUMER
Alexis Grugeon
Hamid Merati-Kashani
mandarin
blackcurrant
pink pepper
amber
frankincense
oud silver
oakwood
patchouli
sandalwood
leather
‘Irreverently playing with the idea of ‘blue’ scents – perfumes with decidedly conventional personalities, much like the suit-wearing figure in The Art Of Living – Opus XV King Blue opens with a bright, innocent mandarin. Pink pepper adds an attention-grabbing sparkle, while blackcurrant accentuates its sharpness. But soon, a different tune begins to play. The sensual tones of amber link to the mandarin. Oak chips introduce woodiness. And before we know where we are, the oud has pounced – and holds us in its mesmerising spell.’ – Amouage
I’ll say that my expectations for King Blue were tempered, but I can report that this is better than I was led to believe. Even if I only love part of it. Still, I’d say this is probably my favorite from the Library Collection. Oh, and it’s definitely not fitting in any common definition of ‘blue’.
I adore the opening; it’s by far my favorite part. The fruitiness leans citrussy and cuts right through the skank. The oud and fruity combination is impressive and I much prefer it over Silver Oud. A distinct skanky, animalic, almost sourish barnyard scent. With how sweet the fragrance is as well, it reminds me of the Laos oud found in Chris Maurice works (Sarah Baker Symmetry most at first).
Near the end of the first hour, it starts shifting. There remains a freshness, but more aromatic to me. It gives some pushback to the oud at first, but another hour in and the woods have fully taken over.
Unfortunately for my taste, this is where it goes into the dry and charred Silver Oud direction. There’s a leather note, but the woods are forward. I also found it a bit nutty and rooty (like ambrette). This lasts all day.
A noticeable, divisive ambroxan sweetness initially. However claims that King Blue smells like Baccarat Rouge 540 are laughable (respectfully). The woods, texture & scent profile have nothing to do with it. It’s not very vanillic, more candied, but not front and center given how powerful parts of the composition are.
The criticism this received even before release based on name, price and let’s face it, because Amouage started working more and more with influencers, says loads about the bitter state of fragrance ‘enthusiasts’, but King Blue has little to do with their qualms. I don’t love the ‘Silver Oud’ aspect, so it loses me in the drydown, but this is without a doubt, one of the better newer Amouages in my book. Great performance (I smell it on me now after 20 hours). If only I could extend the first 1-2 hours…
