ZOOLOGIST
ORCHID MANTIS
2025
PERFUMER
Tomoo Inaba
bergamot
lemon
dewy green notes
pear
basil
pink orchid
queen-of-the-night
ylang-ylang
jasmine absolute
rose absolute
patchouli
vetiver
moss
sandalwood
musk
‘In the muggy shade of a tropical rainforest, an orchid sways seductively. Its glistening petals tremble in anticipation, inviting a passing butterfly to consummate the intimate act of pollination. Succumbing to the allure of the silken flower, the butterfly eagerly flits forward. But as it prepares to alight, the exotic bloom abruptly transforms. Delicate leaves contort into dagger-like forelegs, seizing the bug’s fragile wings. Before the butterfly can comprehend its fate, its head is devoured, crushed between the powerful jaws of the stealthy orchid mantis. Zoologist Orchid Mantis entices you into a fragrant illusion. Juicy pear, exquisite rose and dainty jasmine entwine with basil and ylang to conjure the intense scent of orchids, set against the backdrop of a humid rainforest evoked by patchouli, moss, sandalwood and vetiver. Ultimately, an enduring musk serves as a captivating reminder – that beauty can also be beastly.’ – Zoologist Perfumes
Zoologist is always fun to sample, but in recent years, the move towards more and more mass appealing scents in the collection has made it less intriguing. Orchid Mantis is a return to form for me and may very well end up being my favorite Zoologist alongside Civet.
This has a vintage aesthetic from start to finish. The florals instantly stand out, but they’re not your average, bright, fresh, cozy flowers. There’s a sense of darkness, of earthiness, of heat to them, the way you mostly find in vintage jasmines or more Middle Eastern style florals. I was reminded of the way Areej Le Dore often uses rose, jasmine or champaca and I was mostly reminded of one of my favorites, Prissana Mandarava. Albeit that Mandarava is a notch lighter and a hue greener; more green tuberose-white flowers in the ‘red/pink’ tones of rose-jasmine.
In the middle of the wear, I get most of the ‘heat’… slightly animalic, warm sweetness. Not challenging, but enough to set it apart from today’s common flower accords. It took me back to my vintage bottle of Jean Patou Joy Parfum. It’s never ‘dark’ or ‘gothic’ as there is a (perhaps to some, slightly pissy) acidity that cuts through it.
The (long) late drydown reminds me of warm skin. Not fully clean, but not ‘dirty’ either; it has a sensual quality.
For me, vintage Joy & Mandarava are a notch above, because they don’t have that bitter green edge as much, but Orchid Mantis is a stellar and welcome addition to the Zoologist line-up. It will make its way to a place somewhere on my best of 2025 list.
