GUERLAIN
MAHORA EDP
1999
PERFUMER
Jean-Paul Guerlain
orange
almond blossom
ylang-ylang
neroli
tuberose
jasmine
sandalwood
vetiver
vanilla
Mahora was discontinued c.2002, but it was presumably reworked and re-released as Mayotte in the Les Parisiennes collection in 2006.
‘An homage to the island of Mahore (or Mayotte) where Guerlain has plantations of jasmine and ylang-ylang.’ – Kafkaesque
Mahora has always been on my radar, maybe because of its exquisite bottle. It’s not among the most beloved Guerlain fragrances (an understatement) and given that its release was in 1999, it’s faded into obscurity relatively quick. Apparently it was a failure of a release (although it was reworked into Mayotte only a few years later).
That being said; I really like this one, although, it can be a bit cloying as well. This is a bubblegummy tuberose, with a warmer and sweeter side. Tuberose is a note that’s still growing on me and this wouldn’t be my favorite for it, but it’s pretty interesting. It reminds me of In Astra Antares quite a bit as far as the style of tuberose goes; bubblegummy, sweet and a hint of skank, all at the same time.
What stands out in Mahora is the tropical sweetness. A massive ylang-ylang presence straight away with a vanillic base, that can border on being cloying. It’s kept in check with a greener floral sharpness, but only barely enough. As someone who likes sweet fragrances, I can appreciate it, but I can see how this was not in line with the expectations of the Guerlain customers at the time (oh, how times have changed, looking at the overly sweet line-up of Guerlain anno 2024). The tropical vanilla reminded me a little bit of Nina Ricci L’Air Du Temps.
If you’re into warmer, sweeter tuberose scents, definitely check out Mahora when you get the chance. If you’re looking to experience the sophistication and class of a floral Guerlain, perhaps it’s better to look elsewhere.