MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN
Aqua Media Cologne Forte
2023
PERFUMER
Francis Kurkdjian
bergamot
verbena
fennel
hedione
woody musks
patchouli
green moss
‘Aqua Media Cologne forte is a joyful eau de parfum with tangy, sparkling and almost mouth-watering fresh notes that are full of life. The aniseed accents Francis Kurkdjian holds so dear are center stage, shining through in this garden of citrus notes.
The top note is a slowly unfurling, bright bergamot from Italy – the common thread running throughout the Aqua Cologne forte collection. It is combined with a crystalline hedione note well-known for its airy, floral radiance, in a perfect accord to add breath and volume to sweet fennel.
The remarkable duet created by verbena’s harmony with sweet fennel evokes a bursting, shifting aromatic note of green. This botanical structure is built upon a solid base of woody musks, which underline the fragrance’s sensuality. An effect accentuated by a hint of patchouli amidst
these fresh notes, unveiling the fragrance’s electric, almost effervescent facet of green moss.
These new very green accents, reminiscent of a cold infusion of fresh wild herbs, are what make Aqua Media Cologne forte an unprecedented piece in the Maison’s fragrance wardrobe, where aniseed notes are brought to light. According to Francis Kurkdjian, “Aqua Media Cologne forte
smells like happiness and caring, vitality and energy, reassuring in its apparent simplicity.‘ – Maison Francis Kurkdjian
I wasn’t one bit excited for the original Cologne Forte releases. They felt like a less interesting version of already existing releases, seemingly serving only as an easy sell in a more colorful bottle. With Acqua Media, the Cologne Forte line gets its first new composition and I must say… not too shabby.
This is a very zesty acidic citrus scent. It’s hard to do something unique or interesting with this type of scent profile, and Acqua Media doesn’t wow in that regards. However, straight from the first spray, I was quite happy with how this wore.
It doesn’t feel as clinical and meticulous as many other fresh Kurkdjian releases. I think most people agree that Kurkdjian is a great perfumer, with great quality blending, but his work can feel overworked; like overcompressed vocals in a song, making it less exciting.
Acqua Media retains more of a natural edge, unbalanced in a good way. It’s very sharp citrussy, with an emphasis on a green lemon or mandarin for me. I wish I could compare it to his Dior Dioriviera, but unfortunately, at the time of writing, I can’t yet. I can say that it is significantly more citrussy and zesty than Louis Vuittons ‘green Summer hit’ Pacific Chill. It’s also more green, with a slight tea-like character (more like Louis Vuitton Cactus Garden).
The green here is refreshing. It’s herbal, but not as much as the brand’s description painted to me, not quite grassy either, more working in tandem with the fruitiness. In the later stage of the wear a sharper green becomes noticeable again. There’s definitely a muskiness in Acqua Media, but not nearly as much in a clean linen or laundry detergent way, as for example in 724 or Universalis.
From the other MFK releases, it’s probably closest to the Acqua Celestia line, given it’s fruitiness (Vitae being warmer and Universalis being cleaner). Acqua Media is fresher and more citrussy however and based on my first wear, I think it could be my favorite among the Acqua’s from Kurkdjian. I also find this significantly better than 724, so it may be my favorite fresh MFK, with Petit Matin being the other option.
Nothing particularly new or exciting, but a minor twist in the right direction from previous releases and a solid Summer pick-up. Performance didn’t seem great on first impression.