MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS
ALDEBARAN (LIMITED EDITION)
2025
PERFUMER
Quentin Bisch
tuberose absolute
paprika
mate
tonka bean
A special edition bottle containing Aldebaran (2025), for the 2025 Milan Design Week. Edition of 500.
‘During Milan Design Week, the fragrance will be presented in an exclusive preview with a Limited Edition created specifically for the event. A rarity for collectors and lovers of designer fragrances, this unique version, the protagonist of the exhibition organized by the brand in Milan, will be distinguished by its exclusive packaging, a symbol of its extraordinary character.’ – Campomarzio70
As a fan of Bisch and generally speaking of Marc-Antoine Barrois (I crowned Ganymede EDP my #1 fragrance in my collection right before this review), Aldebaran was perhaps my most anticipated release to try so far in 2025. Which is always a tricky way to approach a fragrance, and unfortunately, it didn’t live up to my expectations. I didn’t initially go into it expecting that this would be to my taste, which turned out to be true, but I definitely figured it would be more intriguing than I found it to be.
I think my expectations for Aldebaran have been skewed by early impressions that I’ve seen of it online. A lot of the reviews I’ve seen painted a picture of an eccentric, heavy, unique, special scent profile. Which, whether I’d like the scent or not, would make me happy. But honestly, I find it a lot more common smelling and especially a lot more mundane than I imagined it would be.
For several minutes it’s slightly fruity, candied, bubblegummy tuberose. Not quite chewing gum perhaps, but a sweeter, slightly minty, anise-like and earthy vibe. Whereas Maison Crivelli Tubereuse Astrale goes loud, spicy and vanillic, Aldebaran goes in a green, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower-ish direction with its florals. There’s minor grassy, hay-like tones. Slightly lactonic. Green, but not vibrant green. If I had to assign colors to what I’m smelling it would be (mint) green, white & grey.
What I get most after the bit of vibrancy and acidity from the opening fades is a scent of rice. Dry rice, slightly earthy, nutty, paper-cardboard-like. This rice scent permeates throughout the rest of the wear for me. I can’t say that I get paprika on first impression, but there is some spiciness. Subtle though, none of the nose-tingling, ‘in-jour-face’ spices from some other Bisch creations. This does not have the divisive eccentricity of Ganymede, Encelade or Tubereuse Crivelli to my nose, at all. It’s a notch darker, but definitely more tied to Tilia style-wise in my opinion and the scent isn’t worlds apart from other lactonic green tuberose or even muguet fragrances on the market.
That greener, sharper, floral side comes back to the forefront for the final hours of the wear, which is less to my taste than the slightly sweeter, earthier, rice-milk mid.
To be clear; Aldebaran wears nicely and this definitely wasn’t a negative experience. I find it a bit too muted and especially after the opening, I miss some acidity, some brightness… something to break it up. It feels monotonous and surprisingy… bland, given the things I’d read about it beforehand. This type of greener tuberose is not really up my alley (Carnal Flower being the main exception and my preferred choice over Aldebaran by a margin), but I could easily see people falling in love with Aldebaran, in a ‘beautiful’, ‘daily wear’, ‘signature scent’ type of way (as with Tilia). I was hoping for something more extravagant and special though.