Xerjoff
17/17 – XXY
2007
peach
grapefruit
bergamot
ylang-ylang
jasmine
iris
vanilla
patchouli
mysore sandalwood
musks
haitian vetiver
‘The true beauty of XXY lies in its unique, androgynous character. Inspired by the notion of a feminine and masculine divide, this fruity floral scent is delicately sprinkled with warm spices, for an intriguing and unconventional perfume. Top notes of Bergamot and grapefruit lead to a precious heart of ylang-ylang and black pepper. A warming base of mysore sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla offers up a classically masculine accord.’ – Xerjoff
After smelling XXY in stores several times, I finally got my hands on a sample. This fragrance has intrigued me for a while now and after proper sampling on skin, I can luckily still say it does.
This is a citrussy vanillic scent. Sometimes compared to Lira, but they are worlds apart in my opinion. This definitely feels a bit more retro than many Xerjoffs. I think the combination of vanillic peach, ylang-ylang and solid quality materials recalls some older (women’s designer) fragrances for me. At least the tropical peachy side feels like something out of a Nina Ricci L’Air Du Temps flanker. That fruitiness leans heavy into the bergamot as well. I’m glad it’s not a ripe, vibrant juice here, although the ylang-ylang does make it rather exotic and rich as it dries.
On the other hand, there’s a more modern and clean sweet vanillic iris. Almost make-up bag material. It’s extremely balmy and smooth, buttery, but the scent is quite understated. It’s kind of like the cardboard-y muddy scent of some patchouli (Coco Mademoiselle for example) or cashmeran heavy fragrances, but done much smoother and nicer here in XXY.
The combination of the two facets works really well. Sharp, acidic, citrussy top, with a subtle, mature vanillic iris and sandalwood underneath. It’s not quite as spicy as I hoped based on testing on paper, where I thought it might go in a Frederic Malle Noir Epices direction (it doesn’t really, it’s much sweeter, less traditionally masculine and fruitier).
If this was in the more affordable Xerjoff range I would have added it to my collection. That being said, the quality of this, as most of the 17/17 releases, seems top-notch. Maybe one day I’ll have it in my collection.