OLFACTIVE STUDIO
Woody Mood

2017

PERFUMER
Bertrand Duchaufour

ginger
saffron
bergamot
clary sage

frankincense
black tea
spikenard
sequoia

styrax
patchouli
cocoa
leather

This was an interesting wear. I went into it without knowing what to expect and was pleasantly surprised.

Given the name, I was prepared for a pretty standard woody scent. I feel this has quite a lot going on however. I get a lot of spices, not in the least place a rubbery saffron. There’s a smokiness and bitterness. Others have pointed out booze and I can also see that.

At the same time, there’s a fresher aromatic part to it. I’ve seen it referred to as bubblegummy and I agree, but in a sweet, spicy way. Perhaps the ginger is giving the freshness a hint of fruit as well, although I don’t find it a pronounced stand out scent.

It dries up quickly, but for me that smoky, rubbery edge doesn’t let up. It’s woody at its core, but it feels like it’s been freshly cut, still smoking from the equipment used. At the same time, the dryness seems to boost the sweetness. While still very subtle, there’s a chocolate powder dusting all over it; kind of reminiscent of Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule.

As it dries down further the incense becomes very prominent. Still smoky, but not pungent. Still sweet, but not overly so. More calm and contemplative, which I always relate to incense fragrances.

I found this to be more unique in comparison to a lot of woody scents. Even compared to a lot of smoky ‘wood workshop’ type scents. The mix of green, spicy and sweet makes it wear more as a warm spicy fragrance at first to me and it becomes a strong incense fragrance in the drydown. A pretty good one at that.