PERNOIRE
VITIAS
2021
PERFUMER
Vincent Micotti
Bergamot
Lime
Pink Pepper
Black Pepper
Angelica
Iris
Precious Woods
Guaiac Wood
Sea Notes
Ambergris
White Musk
Vitias was reformulated with perfumer Andreas Wilhelm in 2023. According to Pernoire, the composition stays true to the 2021 release.
My thoughts on Vitias have changed a bit during my testing. Although not necessarily for better or worse. It opens like a strong aquatic scent to my nose. Not smelling like sea water, but not as simple as a generic ‘sea breeze’ accord either. It has the depth of ambergris, combined with a fresh green tinge and a nice citrus. The citrus makes this very accessible.
In my first impression I made a connection with Clive Christian’s Crab Apple Blossom and that’s still coming to mind to describe the vibe Vitias gives off. That being said, Vitias leans further into the daring side. While it’s clearly the easiest wear and most common scent profile of the 3 2021 Pernoire releases, I still don’t feel it’s overly safe. I get a slight hint of inky anise (akin to Pekji Eaumer) or even veering towards a gasoline tinge (think Pharrell’s Comme des Garçons GIRL).
What I perceived in subsequent wearings is a more earthy, almost nutty element. Combined with the anise and the bitter green, rooty undertone of the angelica, it adds a more grounded layer. Mind you that Vitias is overall on the aquatic and fresh side, but it’s a lot more than that and the angelica might play a bigger role than I initially gave it credit for.
I’ll be honest, I think that none of the 2021 Pernoire releases are safe bets for the average, casual wearer. It reminds me more of some indie/artisinal work or perhaps brands in the style of a Serge Lutens. Tierra could evolve to my favorite as it dries, whereas Vitia opens the nicest for me and grows a bit greener than I usually gravitate towards.
It’s praiseworthy for an emerging brand to choose a non-conventional direction. Many brands will lure in customers with ‘their’ version of BR540, Love Don’t Be Shy & Aventus; you won’t find that among the 3 original Pernoire releases. It also makes them divisive, so getting your own nose on the discovery set comes highly recommended.
