YVES ROCHER
Venise / Venice EDT
1986
PERFUMER
Max Gavarry
bergamot
lemon
peach
green notes
rosewood
ylang-ylang
rose
jasmine
orris
carnation
patchouli
sandalwood
oakmoss
amber
opoponax
civet
benzoin
vanilla
musk
Venice is an absolutely lovely scent. I applied it, because I was testing different versions of Must de Cartier and Venice is often named as very similar.
Venice opens a bit green, fresh, floral, with slightly soapy tinges. For a moment I figured this would go in a quite generic, ‘vintage’ floral direction, but I was wrong. This aged batch of Venice has definitely stayed true to its vanillic scent profile.
I feel like Venice gives me what I was expecting from de Must de Cartiers; powdery vanilla and woodiness with some florals tinges. My Must de Cartier EDT has stayed much fresher and soapier, whereas the Parfum has grown (lovely) into it’s sweetness, to the point the florals and lightness have left the building. My Venice miniature has retained this balance and feels like the most complete fragrance (in its current state).
The opening has a hint of sharp soapiness, although I don’t get any pissy or animalic facets that people seem to get from the civet.
Despite being an older fragrance, it still feels precise. A slight punchiness from the spices. A powdery texture that hasn’t gone muddy and buttery. A lot of emphasis on vanilla, but still floral in the opening. It grows into this custardy, familiar vanilla scent with a lot of iris and sandalwood and ever so slightly fruity/tropical hints that fade quickly. The late drydown is filled with loads of powdery vanilla; somewhat basic, but highly enjoyable.
At times I was reminded a bit of Francesca Bianchi’s work somehow, as she’s dabbled a ton in both the greener, civet-ish, neroli florals and of course the buttery iris woody cores. Definitely a must try given the prices you can find it (or miniatures of it) online if you’re into powdery vanilla, sweet iris or sandalwood fragrances.