GUERLAIN
Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21

2023

PERFUMER
Thierry Wasser
Delphine Jelk

Bourbon Vanilla
Bourbon Vanilla CO2
Vanillin
Spicy notes
Opoponax
Musk
Amber

A vanilla extrait is the definition of ‘can’t go wrong, but can it surprise?’ for me. I love a good vanilla gourmand and natural vanilla bean scent, so I was highly curious about this take.

It’s quite an interesting one from the opening. A brief hint of citrus that surprised me, but the real citrus feeling fades before I could put my nose to it again.

Dry, but balmy vanilla. Not exactly powdery, but almost like a vanilla candle. I won’t go as far as saying that I get a soapy quality to the opening, but there’s cleaner, aromatic leaning edge.

I’ve seen a lot of people compare the vanilla here to Spiritueuse Double Vanille; while there’s an obvious connection, I find it quite different. Vanille Planifolia feels more ‘matte’ and with a fresher tinge, much more akin to Cuir Beluga in the first hours.

The vanilla itself, milky, semi-sweet, but more in a sugary direction than I was expecting. I even get ambroxan vibes from this when I smell it up close. This also has to do with a hint of citrus persisting.

Not at all as spicy as I was lead to believe. As mentioned, I find it fresher perhaps, than most similar vanillas in Guerlain’s repertoire. Of course, it warms up during the wear and the spiciness comes through, but it’s not a full-on gourmand, spicy or ambery scent. It doesn’t smell like the caramel vanilla from the Shalimar flankers for example.

Cozy, comforting, even a bit zen. Perfectly unisex of course, but perhaps a tad traditionally feminine leaning. Reminding me for example of (usually more powdery) light vanilla’s like Les Soeurs de Noe Mitsio Vanille.

For me personally, this feels less complete than (older batches of) Spiritueuse Double Vanille. For a natural vanilla bean scent, I think I prefer Nissaba Grand-Ile.  Vanille Planifolia is a great, brighter take, but that was not really what I was expecting.