VERTUS
Vanilla Oud

2015

APPLE
BERGAMOT
SAFFRON
RHUBARB

AMBER
CASHMERAN
OUD
JASMINE
ROSE
CYCLAMEN
VIOLET

CARAMEL
CEDARWOOD
TONKA BEAN
VETIVER
VANILLA
OUD
PATCHOULI
GUAIAC WOOD
MUSK

I remember Vanilla Oud being the Vertus that was talked about quite a lot some years ago, now, in 2025, I finally got my nose on it. And it’s my first time trying Vertus, a house of which, frankly, I’ve been a bit skeptical. Perhaps, unjustified, as this first impression was rather good.

Looking at the reviews for Vanilla Oud online, it’s interesting to see a wide range of people saying it’s quite dark, woody or naming other elements, while others say it’s mostly vanilla or caramel. My experience is that it clearly falls into the dark woody category. It’s sweet to be sure, but this is not a gourmand or easy-going vanilla to my nose. To my nose, patchouli and saffron stand out.

What Vanilla Oud on the surface reminds me of most is Xerjoff Iommi; quite a lot. The opening is very different, with the Vertus having a somewhat strange fruitiness to it, different from the passionfruit of the Xerjoff. It registers like a fermented boozy, fruity wine. But for most of the wear I get sweet earthy patchouli, some nuttiness and a bit of saffron. It feels more one-dimensional than Iommi, but I’m still getting a similar patchouli-heavy experience in the air/when I’m not paying too much attention to it.

It has a syrupy quality to its texture. It’s dense and thick, like wood chips being melted, along with that vanilla. I keep getting a nuts quality to the woods and a subtle, mature, fruitiness. While no booziness or tobacco is listed specifically, I don’t think it’s world’s apart from Scents Of Wood Plum in Cognac or HFC Private Code style fragrances, maybe even a Serge Lutens Feminite Du Bois. The Vertus Vanilla Oud being heavier are more Middle Eastern styled as it dries.

A bit too heavy on the earthiness for me to fully love it. It remains sweet, woody and spicy with saffron sticking along with it. I’d really have to be in the mood to wear this, otherwise, it would start to feel like a drag (the same reason that I sold Iommi, despite initially loving it). That being said, it’s a more than solid fragrance, that feels as rich as its high price point. I was positively surprised.