ELECTIMUSS
VANILLA EDESIA

2023

PERFUMER
Cecile Zarokian

bergamot
mandarin
bitter almond
heliotrope
pink pepper
frankincense

cinnamon
cumin
coriander
rose centifolia
ylang-ylang

vanilla absolute
patchouli
vetiver
sandalwood
cedarwood
leather

‘Edesia was the Roman goddess of luxury and feasting, so this fragrance was inspired by celebrations of extravagance, excessand epicurean pleasures. This opulent creation is a cornucopia of the gastronomic delights of creamy vanilla, exotic fruits, citrus and bitter almondseasoned with exotic spices cinnamon and pink pepper, scattered with ylang-ylang, heliotrope and sweet rose centifolia florals,all underpinned with an addictive, carnal base of amber, musk, leather, gourmand and woody accents.’ – Electimuss

‘Vanilla Edesia is built on duality – just like the smell of vanilla itself which can evoke sweetness and innocence but also has a darker side, spicier, moreleathery. For me this brief was all about abundance and opulence which is why wehave so many ingredients and such a long pyramid. Usually my creations are more limited with ingredients, but this muse demanded more. It’s a very sophisticated and complex perfume, but it’s also a massappealing, addictive and easy to wear fragrance.’ – Cecile Zarokian

Summer/Autumn 2023 seems to be the season of vanilla with Parfums de Marly Althair, BDK Vanille Leather, Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder, Burberry Goddess & more big releases. Most have been disappointing (and smelling like safe designers) to me. Vanilla Edesia isn’t, but… how vanilla is it?

I wasn’t expecting Vanilla Edesia to be a basic, straight up vanilla; Cecile has popular sweet ones under her belt (Remember Me, Cafe Cabanel, Material), but not all conventional (Ani, Premier Amour, Aura Sublime). Yet, this is different from what I anticipated.

Opening heavy with cumin. Similar the cardamom in Electimuss prior release, Aquila Absolute, the spiciness is ‘saved’ by how dense the rest of the fragrance is. In most cases, this much cumin would be a no for me, but here it works. But a lot to handle and a heavy-handed composition that feels Middle-Eastern inspired. I barely get fruits and it seems to jump straight to the mid/base.

A lot of people asked me about the patchouli and how dominant it is. To me, this isn’t earthy in a patchouli manner. It’s more on the fiery woody side; some may find it screechy (cypriol, amberwoody) with some foresty tones from vetiver. In the drydown even leathery. With no iris, ambrette or carrot, I get an earthy carrot when I smell this up close. Florals are there, but I have to look for them. Wafts of rose in the air, but the spices dominate my nose.

At first, I didn’t register vanilla. After 3 wears, I get more and more of it. Especially after the spices fade, at least 1-2 hours into the wear. It’s sweet & vanillic, but like the concentrated core of a more diffusive ball of an almost smoky, spicy woody, leathery fragrance. I would not refer to Vanilla Edesia as gourmand.

I recommend this to spicy, (oudy) woody fans. As much as I like it, the people who I spoke to about this had vastly different expectations. So get your nose on it; this is not a safe blind buy. Which is commendable and I prefer Vanilla Edesia over the aforementioned releases. You get your money’s worth more as it nails the ‘opulence’ part of the brief. Bordering on daring to wear for me in the first half, but I enjoy it. And with getting more of the vanilla, it may grow on me further.