IN ASTRA
VANANT

2025

PERFUMER
Bertrand Duchaufour

magnolia
black rose
Carnation
resins
smoky notes

Vanant is in my opinion the most intriguing offering from In Astra so far. I’m still internally debating whether or not I prefer it over Tistar, but whereas Tistar is a subtle, cozy, understated fragrance, Vanant is eccentric and ever so slightly daring.

The first thing that hit me when I applied Vanant is a pungent (in a good way), rubbery/laminated floral. I was reminded of the distinct vibe I know mostly from Etat Libre D’Orange Experimentum Crucis & Hermann A Mes Cotes. Scent-wise, Vanant fits in between; not as vibrant and rosy as Experimentum Crucis, but not as green and fresh as Hermann A Mes Cotes. The carnation pulls it in a darker, more serious toned rubbery and spicy floral direction, but there is a tiny hint of skank. Not nearly as daring of a combination as D:SOL MMXVI Sombra, of which I was briefly reminded (although I’m more familiar with the 2023 version, the 2024 has been reformulated to be less daring).

Minutes in, Vanant becomes significantly smokier, but paired with a growing sweetness as well. Quite in-your-face, but there’s enough levity still, instead of suffocating the wearer. It loses some of the laminated touch and keeps only a hint of latexy carnation (picture a saffron-tinge dark floral). What becomes more prominant is a spicy, ambery sweetness. At one point I was reminded of a smoky Vanilla Coke.

When I smell my skin up close, the smokiness gets to be very pronounced throughout the drydown. Almost ashy.

A lot of movement and transitions within this first time wearing it and I really enjoyed it.