FREDERIC MALLE
UNE ROSE

2003

PERFUMER
Edouard Flechier

Rose
RED WINe
CASTOREUM
Geranium
PATCHOULI
VETIVER
TRUFFLE

UNE ROSE (2003) was discontinued (the fragrance had to be changed due to IFRA regulations and Malle decided that the composition was altered enough to warrant a rebranding). It was replaced in 2021 by Rose Tonnerre ROSE TONNERRE (2021).

I have acquired and reviewed Rose Tonnerre after the review below, which I kept unaltered for reference’s sake. Check out the Rose Tonnerre review for an updated take about two years later.

Portrait Of A Lady by Malle is my favorite rose so far, so how does Une Rose compare? It’s a very interesting one.

Une Rose is a very ‘red’ rose. I wouldn’t say it’s sharp (it’s not comparable to a Montale rose), but it’s very bold. The rose has a fresh, tangy, almost sour tinge and it comes off really natural.

It’s a balance of being only slightly green and only slightly jammy, with more a punchy brightness, that I never came across before. There’s a hint of musk underneath and overall it leaves a somewhat bitter or tart impression. Aside from the rose, you get this ‘red wine’ accord. There’s definitely something there, but I’m not sure if I would describe it as red wine (which is a smell I strongly dislike), maybe a clear dry mild red wine or a rosé.

As it dries down, it remains very bold and rich and it does get warmer, but without getting much sweeter, which is nice for a change. I don’t pick up on the truffle or even the honey that are listed at all.

You do get a woody base, but the rose overpowers it all the way to the end. This is extremely strong. I wore this side by side with Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood (a beast) and the Une Rose could keep up with it.