FRANCESCA BIANCHI
TYGER TYGER
2020
PERFUMER
Francesca Bianchi
NARCOTIC FLOWERS
HONEY
PEACH JAM
PATCHOULI
SANDALWOOD
OAKMOSS
OUD
LEATHER
HELIOTROPE
‘In this composition I have been searching for the perfect balance between two opposite elements, and the expression of their clashing contraposition. I had in mind a Post-Apocalyptic condition, where traces of a highly sophisticated and refined civilisation survived in the dark and fearful condition of a collapsed and destructured world. Blake’s Tyger embodies both qualities I wanted to depict: sublime and irresistibly attractive from one side and terrible and scary from the other one. The ‘fearful symmetry’ – a character attributed to the tiger by W Blake – aptly represent this opposition of beautiful perfection and terror. The perfume is built around an accord of narcotic white flowers with sweet-fruity facets, which includes also an absolute of Tuberose – like a prima donna, the protagonist of a dramatic piece, she’s the finest example of a refined civilization of a bygone world; in opposition to that, the base notes present different kind of woods, with some burnt and leathery qualities, referring to a post-apocalyptic scenario of destruction, mystery and darkness. The result of these parts – which wouldn’t work individually – is a clashing, sparkling fragrance which gives me an exciting emotion of highly dramatic sophistication – the kind of contrasted sentiment that anything attractive arouses in me. ‘ – Francesca Bianchi
I really enjoyed some of the more classically styled Bianchi releases (Luxe Calme Volupte, Libertine Neroli, Unspoken Musk). From her other and sometimes more popular work, I ended up buying Sticky Fingers, but overall her heavier styles ended up being too much for me. Tyger Tyger might be the first perfect marriage of her styles for me and it’s my favorite Bianchi currently.
This is essentially a super sweet, slightly fruit fragrance, but with an animalic suede and a powdery floral facet.
The suede hit me first. It’s a lifelike, but not overbearing leather scent that gets dominated by the sweetness. There’s some fruitiness and acidity, although not as bright and clashing as in her Obsessive Deviotion for Hedonik (which is pretty similar, but I didn’t like as much).
The honey sweetness reminds me of caramel at times and chewing gum at the same time. Tyger Tyger reminds me of one of my all time favorites, Ella K Melodie D’Altai a lot, but the Bianchi is a tad more daring and vibrant. The chewing gum with the powdery floral also makes me think of the recent Teo Cabanel Deja Vu bubblegum-iris-violet release a little bit.
All things said and done, this has a nice roar in the opening hour, a tangy bite and a cozy honey coating. The powdery texture makes it a bit retro, although it doesn’t have the mossy-vintage styling of some of Francesca’s other work. Nor does it feel as heavy-handed as the Under My Skins and The Dark Sides of her range. It’s a middle ground that really works for me.
