NEELA VERMEIRE
TRAYEE

2012

PERFUMER
Bertrand Duchaufour

Ginger
Cinnamon
Elemi
blackcurrant
Basil

Cardamom
Sandalwood
Saffron
Clove
Jasmine

Incense
myrrh
Oud
Vanille
Amber
Cedarwood
Vetiver
Patchouli
Oak Moss

The most interesting from the Neela Vermeire that I’ve tried thus far (Bombay Bling and Niral being the other two) has to be Trayee. It will potentially live on my wishlist after this first impression.

Trayee opens with a spicy and citrussy fruitiness. Ginger and blackcurrant presumably take care of that fruity element, while cinnamon, clove, cardamom and saffron add a spicy punch. During the wear the cardamom plays a bigger role, while the saffron does not make this a leathery fragrance (luckily).

Looking at the note breakdown, this could easily go in a fully ambery, resinous and spicy affair quickly, but the acidity from the ginger does a lot to uplift the composition in the first hour(s). By the time the acidity fades you’re left with a warmer, cozy scent.

It smells ‘orange’ to me, with a slightly herbal tinge; I picture an actual fossilized amber or an orange lollipop or hard candy. It’s veiled in a thin layer of incense smokiness in the air around it. It feels super smooth and rounded, almost syrupy, despite all the spicy and woody notes.

As it dries the sandalwood base comes through, with some more smokiness and that herbal tinge, but never really going green. All that while being more subtle sillage and projection wise.

An easy love and recommendation for me.