ENSAR OUD
TONKIN MUSK (PURE PARFUM)
2021
PERFUMER
Ensar Oud
Ginger
Yuzu
Peach
Lavender
Mimosa
Styrax
Jasmine
Rose Damascus
Chamomile
lily-of-the-valley
Tuberose
Jonquil
Tonkin musk
Papuan Oud
Cambodian Oud
Mysore sandalwood
Sandalwood
Bourbon vetiver
Oakmoss
Iris
Tonka bean
I was instantly taken by a Tonkin Musk sample; I just had to have it. Actually, I sold 8 bottles in my collection to buy this, that’s how good it is.
It’s hard to describe Tonkin Musk. The scent is one thing, but the feeling and texture feel like another level of perfumery to me, even compared to releases that I’ve tried from other artisinal brands (in which my experience is limited to be fair). Tonkin Musk is a smooth paste-like, yet airy coating of the skin. The feeling is comparable only to the pure Mysore sandalwood oil I’ve tried.
Scent-wise, Tonkin Musk is surprisingly uplifting and bright. The opening is dominated by yuzu, ginger and peach, giving a high-key, acidic fruity blast on top of mostly florals at first. Tuberose seems to play major part, but it’s not indolic or meaty; this is a scent you can pull off in warm weather without a problem.
Underneath is the milky smooth layer. I can picture the iris and the tonka bean (though not overly sweet, there is sweetness throughout). It comes across like an old wooden bowl filled with mashed (white) flowers drenched in a fruity juice. While most of Tonkin Musk feels bright and happy, there’s an almost inky, smokiness rounding it off. It’s there constantly, but always as an ad-lib in the back (as opposed to the heavier smokiness in Iris Ghalia‘s opening for example)
Safe to say I’m pretty obsessed with Tonkin Musk. It’s the type of scent that I wish I could have everyone reading this explore. I can’t find good comparisons in my recollection; I guess the closest would be Bortnikoff’s excellent Musk Khabib, but for me the Ensar is on a different level completely and easier to wear at the same time.
Sidenote: A time after this review, I got my nose on Ensar’s Tibetan Musk, which is more different than it is similar, and in my opinion, not as good, but it’s worth checking out as well.
