ATELIER MATERI
TONKA KUMARU

2026

PERFUMER
Celine Perdriel

bergamot
bitter almond
Cardamom

roasted barley
hay
cedar leaf

roasted tonka bean
vanilla resin
amber
musk

‘Tonka Kumaru is a gourmand, sensual creation that reveals the tonka bean in all its depth. Every facet is carefully shaped, revealed, and amplified to express its singularity. The fragrance unfolds with almondy notes of tonka lifted by the freshness of bergamot and the spiciness of cardamom. In the heart, roasted barley and hay absolute enhance tonka’s dry, warm nuances, while cedar leaf brings structure, depth, and texture to the composition. In the base, the roasted tonka bean fully unfolds. Elevated by raw Madagascan vanilla, its gourmand and milky facets shine through. Paired with amber and musks, it gains intensity, sensuality, and a lingering, enveloping warmth. Tonka Kumaru is a modern tribute to an exceptional raw material, where each note is crafted to reveal and amplify the tonka bean’s full richness and complexity. (…) Right from the first notes, the tonka bean’s almondy facets take center stage. They are enhanced by a natural bitter almond, extracted from the kernel, a rare and precious ingredient from South Africa. Chosen in its purest form, this almond adds texture and dimension to the composition, highlighting the tonka’s almondy depth and enriching the overall structure of the fragrance (…) Sourced from Venezuela, this exceptional tonka bean is 100% pure and natural, chosen for its rich nuances and intricate texture. To bring out its full depth, the bean is carefully roasted, a process that intensifies its gourmand facets, amplifies its strength, and enhances its addictive character. The tonka then reveals its full spectrum: almondy and milky notes, dry hay nuances, and warm, vanilla-tinged tones (…) An unprecedented accord of 4 exceptional musks, each selected for its unique character: a crystalline musk, pure and luminous; an earthy musk, deep and warm; an animalic musk, sensual and primal; a fruity musk, with soft blackberry accents. Each musk plays a precise role in the structure of the fragrance, revealing itself at different stages, top, heart, or base. Together, they provide the composition with a delicate yet enveloping foundation, a creamy, soft texture, and an addictive quality. The blend enhances the tonka note and extends its lasting power on the skin.’ – Atelier Materi

For me, this one instantly felt a bit unnecessary when I first smelled at Perfume Week Paris and after a proper wear, it doesn’t do much for me.

It lacks to subtleness of most of the brand’s EDP’s and feels a bit more in-your-face and bold, the way their Extraits have been. For most people, that’s probably a positive though, as performance is solid, but I kind of prefer the classiness of the older releases.

Tonka Kumaru makes for a sweet tonka scent that’s not as cozy and comforting as some others; up close it feels a rougher than I would’ve expected from Atelier Materi. Almost burnt tonka bean, with the charring giving off both a liquor and licorice tinge. Spicy with a peppery or nutmeg-like facet.

It joins at the tail-end of a tonka/almond/coumarin avalanche of sorts, with releases like Guerlain Tonka Sarrapia, D’Orsay Tonka Hysteria, Dusita Tonka Latte, Regalien Chatelain and my personal favorite, Une Nuit Nomade Chemin D’Amande. Frankly, Tonka Kumaru probably lands at the very bottom of the list for my taste, despite not being bad or unpleasant in and of itself.