BYREDO
TOBACCO MANDARIN

2020

PERFUMER
Jerome Epinette

Cumin
Mandarin
Coriander

Tobacco
Leather
Labdanum

Frankincense
Sandalwood
Oud

When I first smelled Tobacco Mandarin in a store, I was head over heels. In the following year I’d sampled it every time I saw it in a store, until finally pulling the trigger. Only to eventually let it go again, but that doesn’t take away from it’s beauty.

The thing is, that this is a Byredo like no other (edit: later I found out that Boadicea The Victorious Tobacco Sapphire smells almost identical). I’m not the biggest fan of the house’s overall DNA and the only one in my possession at the time of writing is the discontinued gem Seven Veils. That being said, I think the Nigth Veils collection has some more intriguing things to offer, especially Tobacco Mandarin and Casablanca Lily.

To my nose, Tobacco Mandarin smells very Middle Eastern inspired. It’s a super wet tobacco and it evokes images of a spice bazar. The reason I didn’t keep it in my collection, was that the opening hour kept me from reaching for it. The culprit being the cumin (isn’t it always the cumin?). The more I wear this, the more the cumin jumps out at me and I’ve heard this from many others, so buyers beware. After the initial, smoky, spice blast, it’s like the spices drown in the wetness and a slight dried fruitiness akin to shisha or pipe tobacco emerges.

To be totally honest; I’ve never smelled mandarin in Tobacco Mandarin. I assume it’s responsible for the juicy, wet texture, but the scent is overpowered by other things. Ultimately, this is a very unique scent and an attention grabber, but it’s a tricky one for my taste.