ZOOLOGIST
TIGER
2023
PERFUMER
Cristiano Canali
Saffron
Kumquat
Cardamom
Jasmine Sambac
Incense
carrot seed
Vetiver
ebony tree
Papyrus
‘The frail glow of the waning moon dwindles until only impenetrable blackness persists across the grasslands. A herd of deer venture tentatively into the expanse. Though their long necks dip to feed, their dainty legs remain tense, poised to flee. Nearby, gleaming gold eyes pierce the gloom, and silky ears stiffen, attuned to the softest tremor. The tiger advances haltingly, intent on its prey, anticipating a moment of vulnerability. In a seamless motion, it leaps and descends upon its victim, its razor-sharp fangs sinking deep into the deer’s throat. As the deer’s life fades, its herd is already gone, evaporating into the night. Like the thrill inspired by a low, rumbling growl cutting through silence, Zoologist Tiger couples danger with majesty. Vetiver’s earthy body is licked with stripes of kumquat, saffron and jasmine in an elegant pattern. Incense lurks at the edges, shrouded by smoky undertones of papyrus and ebony wood. Tiger arouses intrigue, putting those around you on high alert.’ – Zoologist
Tiger seems like the perfect concept for Zoologist to have another more daring fragrance in their line-up, which has grown to be less challenging in recent years. In my opinion, it doesn’t really do that, but I do have some observations to make here.
Most notably, that this seems to be one of those releases, where I don’t agree with most reviews out there. Most of the reviews there make this out to be a very accessible mass appealing scent. There’s even mentions of it being a skin scent, a Summer fragrance and it being perfect for the office and church visits. To me it seems like those users only smelled the first minutes of Tiger.
While definitely not an overly daring fragrance, it’s not a light one, with a hefty, smoky, almost leathery backbone. Most prominent in the opening minutes is the carrot seed for me. I thought it was iris at first; powdery, spicy, kind of ‘beige’ in color, with a masculine twist. It reminds me a bit in style of Zoologist Cardinal.
As it starts to dry, vetiver becomes the main focus. However, I don’t know if comparisons to Chanel Sycomore and definitely Lalique Encre Noire are completely right. They are similar surely, but not identical. Tiger is not a very green vetiver, it doesn’t smell like a pine forest (as Encre Noire does to me). Instead, it has more of a smoky, nutty, ambrette-esque vibe with a lot of incense as supporting note.
It has this fiery, sightly burnt smoky edge. Similar to Chantecaille Vetiver Cedre and Vetyver. There is a cleaner element to the vetiver here as well, but not soapy. Instead, there’s a sweetness to it, but in a moderate way.
As mentioned, I do get tinge of leather in the base here, maybe from the saffron, but also in a woody, smoky way. For me it recalled Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather. It’s not a strong leather fragrance, but it adds to this edge that makes Tiger less easy going for me than I’ve seen many others perceive it. I do also think it will work best in Autumn, but it is a versatile enough vetiver to wear year round.
Quite a nice release, although also a bit of a missed opportunity. I think the concept could’ve been pushed in a more animalic direction for this one. Still, one of the recent Zoologists that I’d be inclined to wear the most I think and the quality is there.