ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE
The Ghost In The Shell

2021

PERFUMER
Julie Masse

aqual
yuzu
hexyl acetate

jasmin absolute
mugane
milky skin

moss
vinyl gaiacol
orcanox

‘The Ghost in the Shell, a perfume that speaks of the human phenomenon and its paradox, a perfume to wear on oneself ab libitum, at one’s pleasure. A perfume as a propagation towards the other, that makes you the axis and the arrow of evolution; modern, indeed! From the bottom of the matter, rise up.’ – Etat Libre D’Orange

As a fan of Ghost In The Shell anime, this fragrance had my attention upon launch, but somehow I never managed to review it until some years later. This is not quite what I expected, but I like what I got from it regardless.

I was expecting it to be more left-field, atypical, challenging. Perhaps like a little sibling to Secretions Magnifiques, but no, The Ghost In The Shell remains completely safe. Or is it? When smelled up close, I do find something slightly disconcerting in this fragrance, but I can’t put my finger on it.

What surprised me in return is how much of a retro masculine, aromatic cologne I get from it. I do get citrus and green florals, mostly lily-of-the-valley and the overarching feeling is that of a soap. However, I also get lavender, strongly; I was surprised to learn that nothing in that direction was listed in the notes. From my collection, I get some hints from Dolce & Gabanna Pour Homme in The Ghost In The Shell.

I guess the connection to aromatics is in the sharpness. Despite mostly smelling like fresh soap and having a (mild) milky, lactonic tinge, this is a rather sharp and harsh fragrances for a good while. Especially when smelling the skin up close, it smells highly synthetic (which plays well into the theme).

Frankly, after one full wearing, I’m completely on the fence; I have no idea how to feel about it. It feels like I mixed a men’s ‘cologne’ with something like Chanel Chance or maybe Creed Spring Flower, and washed it halfway off with soap… with an unusual sharpness… Intrigued, appreciative, but not convinced that I’d want to wear it again.