D.L. ROELEN
THE DOOR
2020
PERFUMER
Gabriel Gabor
Smoke
Dried Fruits
Saffron
Black Tea
Industrial glue
Burnt Match
Vetiver
Latex
Palo Santo
Skin
Powdery Notes
Musk
‘The Door is inspired by Berlin’s most famous club and simply my way to thank those who curate the right mix of people and protect the space where everyone can truly be themselves’ – D.L. Roelen
Flower Boy is probably my first pick from the house of D.L. Roelen, but a rather safe one. The Door was my second pick, but definitely the most interesting one, so I want to dive a bit deeper.
The overarching DNA that I got from D.L. Roelen was floral, a bit green and he doesn’t shy away from a bit of skankiness. In The Door you get a bit of the skank in the opening; an earthiness combined with a sharper, almost metallic tinge. It feels dense, crowded. I get wafts of wood shavings (the palo santo) and a plastic vibe (it lists latex as a note). I don’t know why, but from the moment I tried this and again with wearing it today, I get a clear picture of stepping into a workshop.
Abused wooden table tops, cardboard, glue, paint brushes in dirty water, the smell of wood being cut on a large table saw (including a bit of burning and smoke). In the drydown, it balances more between woody and leathery, with the leather overtaking the scent when I smell my skin up close. It lists dry fruits and black tea for the opening, which I think you can pick up if you’re looking for them, but don’t get this expecting a bright fruity comforting opening. That being said, the overall composition has a rough edge, but it’s far from unwearable; it’s not safe, but well restricted.
The Door is one that will work best on the coldest days of the year in my opinion. It’s a bit daring, so you have to own it when you wear it, in which case it can come off sensual and a bit mysterious. I definitely appreciate the uniqueness and the imagery it gives me, though I wouldn’t be able to wear it on a regular basis.